Tsukiji

Gotanda Station. The Yamanote (Circle) Line was empty. A sight I’ve never seen before. The reason?

It was 4:30 am, and I was on my way to Tsukiji; the world’s largest fish market. Pretty tired but excited about what lay ahead, I knew that it could either be a great experience or a complete wash-out.

I was warned by many websites that for the last two years the main attraction, being the tuna auction, has been closed to the public. It’s important to keep in mind whilst reading that the word ‘attraction’ is almost the antithesis to what it should really be. Tsukiji is not an official tourist spot; people are trying to do their jobs whilst onlookers are using flash photography, getting in the way and generally distracting the process.

We walked out of Tsukiji station in the pitch black and relied on the sense of busy-ness and noise to guide us to the right place. Turning a few corners, we were confronted by hundreds of lorries and crates. Between them were fishermen racing around on small trucks, operated by huge turn-wheels. They were hurtling about at such a speed, and didn’t look willing to slow down for anyone. I wasn’t prepared to find out.


Behind the freight area was the wholesale market; lines and lines of stalls and boxes. People laying all kinds of fish out, in bulk packages. This was all covered and narrow, so it was pretty dark and claustrophobic. I was expecting an overwhelming smell but there was none so I guess it’s true that fresh fish is odourless. However, there was a lot of bloody ice around.


At the far end of the market was a big room; the size of an inside sports court. To me, it initially appeared hectic, chaotic, frenetic but on second glance, it all fit into place. Men were shouting numbers, while others were checking out the humungous tuna on display, while others were ringing bells, others were carrying tuna on the rather scary looking scythes they all carried*, and others were painting marks or sticking receipts onto the already sold fish. You can see the use of their tools when moving the fish.




The fish were selling for millions each – about £15,000 on average – but it depended where they were from. For example, tuna from the sea around Japan was the most expensive, but even those from as far as Mexico and Italy were going for not much less. Here are some workers struggling to move a ridiculously huge – and crowd favourite – tuna.



There weren’t many tourists, maybe about 20, but it was almost impossible to ‘close’ the auction to us, as it was just another area of the market. Everyone was pretty respectful and stayed back, although we took a few pictures to put the tuna size into perspective.



After watching the せり (seri, auction) I was feeling so awake and pumped full of adrenaline. However, I’m not sure I could wake up at 2am everyday to trade in fish; after all, we only arrived at 5:30 am when the auction took place. A lot of arrivals and set-up occurred much earlier than that.


We walked around the market looking at the weird and wonderful, and normal, fish. Some I still have no idea about.





The tuna that had just been bought was in its next stage; the cutting down to size.


You call that a knife; this is a knife! (You can see the trucks in the background)

They even had whale for sale:

The sun finally started coming up, and everything looked a lot less intimidating. Almost as if they were allergic to the sun, the bustling calmed down around the same time, and the place seemed a lot calmer.

We went to the beginning of the market, to try breakfast at one of the famous sushi restaurants. Although they are crazy expensive, it could be a once in a lifetime experience and worth it, although the (violently-)niggling gut reaction of “It’s 7:30 am, you can’t eat toast let alone raw fish!” was being held down. That and the long queues - sometimes up to a few hours - for each restaurant.

Not having to wait too long, we chose Sushi Daiwa (寿司大和 – sushi big taste) as it’s the most famous. Breakfast was amazing – for £15 each we had 7 pieces of sushi, 6 rolled in seaweed pieces, miso soup and green tea. I was also offered beer, which I laughed at the prospect of. Until I noticed nearly every other customer drinking!

The place was tiny, and each guest(s) were looked after by a chef. We sat halfway down the counter. I’d never seen this style of sushi preparation before. The chef would clump a handful of rice together, put some fish and wasabi (horseradish-strength) on top and place it in front of you straight onto the counter. A very basic eating style complimented by highly regarded cuisine. The ultra-fresh tuna was outstanding but the other stuff was a bit too much for me to stomach, so Keiko ate quite a bit of my stuff – I did try everything though including, for the first time, sea urchin. Very sweet, but sticky. I couldn’t take photos, but managed this sneaky one, although someone got a decent clip on YouTube.


Afterwards, the sun was beating down, and we walked around the outer market, which had more fish, but also a flower as well as vegetable section. On the other side was Tsukiji Temple. It looked so out of place in Tokyo, being better suited to Paris or Rome.





It was in fact a Buddhist refuge, prayer hall and mausoleum, but famous for its large auditorium where many people come to (and it was evident) sleep. Luckily, we arrived at 7am, right when the morning service was taking place. I felt so lucky to stumble upon this new and desired sight; another Lost In Translation moment. It was very interesting, but again did nothing for me spiritually. We went downstairs to see the ‘places of interest’ but it looked like something out of a horror movie so we were soon on our way.

We took the train from Shimbashi – the area I previously described as future world – and arrived back in Gotanda about 8:30am. It was surreal because we arrived at the peak of rush hour, albeit we had been up for a good four hours already.

The rest of the day involved sleeping, eating lunch and watching The 40 Year Old Virgin (pretty good, but turn it off 5 minutes before the end), more sleeping, a bit more sleeping, the gym and then more sleeping.

Just as an afterthought I want to add that there are hygiene inspectors constantly scouring the area, and the whole place is deserted by 1pm every day, when it is sanitised.

An unbelievable experience!

*a good deterrent to stay back

Image Of The Week #24

(Shiodome, 26th Jan 2007)

NOVA Students Say The Stupidest Things #38

A student walks in listening to her iPod. She takes the headphones out to say hi.

Student: Hi
Phil: Hi, what are you listening to?
Student: My iPod.

Blogs On A Scandal

Big news today - seven NOVA teachers were arrested this week for possession of cocaine. Their school is quite a way across Japan from where I am, and that's all I know. However, it's been on the news here and all the students have been asking. We've been informed - duh - not to discuss it.

It reinforces a point that I've been meaning to explain for a while now. NOVA is a huge business here - with a branch next to nearly every train station in urban Japan.

One rather appropriate anecdote is when I was in central Tokyo one night and went up a building to see the skyline. From one particular window, I could see thousands upon thousands of buildings but the only billboard lit up was of NOVA.

It almost becomes impossible to escape the logo as wherever I travel, I spot it. I guess kind of like those check-list travelling books you have when you're a kid. I'm sure Dad and Barbara will back me up on this point.

Anyway, NOVA is extremely prominent within Japan - the name has a 100% recognition rate with the general population - and a story like this will leave a very sour aftertaste.

Advance Warning

Get some beans ready for Saturday. Soy beans are preferable, but any dry/roasted beans will suffice.

An explanation will follow.

I Won!

You may remember the postcard I was sent from the gym for New Year. Each one has a serial number printed on the back, and a draw takes place mid January.


This year's numbers were:

157788 or 457190 for the biggest prizes (holidays etc)
5161 or 7093 or 7485 or 9614 for the middle prize (massage chairs)
64 or 79 for the most common prize (two stamps).

As you can see, I won some stamps. I know it's not much, but about 1 in 20 win, and this was the only card I received.

For Me?

Apart from the huge bag of chocolates I was given from a student on X-mas day, I also received many other presents. As I'll reiterate, it's these five-or-so percent of students that obviously care and make the job worthwhile.

The nicest present I received were these good luck charms. ダルマ (Dar-ma) are shrine charms that are typically given around New Years, but also at any time during the year for good luck. The eyes are blank, so that when you make a wish you paint a black dot on one of the eyeballs. Should the wish come true, you fill the other eye in. The sizes range from very small to as big as a room. It's quite a nice idea, and can be seen on an extravagant scale in government elections.



A further gift were a pair of small scale Edo-style kites, as can be seen in my photos of the Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum.


One of my favourite students gave me this shiny patterned card.


Edamame are usually green soy beans covered in salt and served as bar food. However, Gifu prefecture has a black soy sauce delicacy. I received a pack of these. Not to my taste, but the thought was lovely.

(A pic off the web)

NOVA Students Say The Stupidest Things #37

A rather long post, but worth it.
While discussing how to tell anecdotes:

Phil: I'd like you to tell me about a time you had an accident. Remember to 'set-the-scene', to have a clear middle, climax and end.

(Try to guess what the accident will be and where in the story it will happen)

Student: It was about 10 years ago, and I was working at at a famous company. The President was very old and sadly he died. As one of the managers, I had to deal with the press. So I met them, and answered their questions. Later that night I attended his wake, but it was dark and stormy and I forgot my umbrella. I got really wet from the rain but I made it inside and gave a speech. Afterwards in the toilet I noticed my, what do you call them?
(He points at his crotch, I hope he hadn't meant to)
Phil: Umm, what do you call what?
Student: You know, under your pe-nis*.
(He draws a quick sketch in his text-book)
Phil: Umm... your testicles.
Student: Yeah, i noticed they were large.
Phil: Ok...?
Student: I found out that my bowel had fallen into my testicles.
(I can't help but laugh at this point)
Phil: Really? What did you do? Go to the hospital?
Student: Yes, but I pushed it back up first.

Ok, firstly, why would he tell me this? Secondly, how random was the rest of that story. And thirdly, how big did they have to be to realise?!

I can't help myself. Fourthly, he pushed his bowel back up!!!

*pronounced peh-niss. They all call it that, I don't know why.

Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow

My hair has been growing noticeably lighter. So much so that even many students - who normally show the observational capability of a dodo - have asked whether I have had highlights. It's pretty cool, I should add. Unfortunately, I must also admit that I found three white hairs in the last few months. Only 3 I say with my fingers crossed.

There are many suggestions for their existence.

1) From all the swimming I'm doing, the chlorine might be involved. Remember, they were white, not gray.

2) They're just a freak anomaly.

3) I'm stressed.

4) I'm going grey.

5) If you look at the Japanese closely, most have a few white hairs. By most, I would guess 80%. Maybe I'm adjusting not just culturally but genetically to the society. Far-fetched, but cool.

Do any of the above sound the most rational, or anything else it could be down to?

Image Of The Week #23

The candy bra was delicious, and I know you knew this was coming:


My favourite picture. Moral of story, don't play with your food!

Into The Airwaves

It hasn't been the best week. And I'm sorry if I feel so distant sometimes. It's times like these when you realise that as incredible as modern technology is in fast communication, it can't bridge the gap that physical proximity does.

My thoughts are always with everyone, and I'm sending out good wishes.

Oscars Schmoscars

I haven't seen any of the nominated films this year and, following last year's Best Picture travesty, I've kind of given up on it.

Besides that, who needs them when you have this?

That's right, it's of course the Japan Best Jewellery Wearer Awards.

Big Bother

Things don't sound so peachy in the Big Brother house, from what I hear. Seems to be big news all over the world, and in Parliament.

Yet another reason for me to want to rush back to England!

Image Of The Week #22B

My 60 year old teacher bought me, drum roll please, this:

Why would a 60 year old lady buy this?! It's hilarious and scary. And everytime I think "Could I use it?", she pops into my head.

To top it off, on the back, it wonderfully says: "One size fits most".

Happy Birthday Mum!

A Multi-lingual Birthday Wish:

Happy Birthday！
誕生日におめでとうございます！
Joyeux Anniversaire！

Happy Birthday To You
Happy Birthday To You
Happy Birthday Dear Mum
Happy Birthday To You!!

Knowing as you like tea so much, I thought I'd give you some 'useful' advice.

Can't wait to see you xx