Tuesday, May 13

Hokkaido - Asahiyama Zoo

Sapporo was easily covered in a day, so we took a train East towards the town of Asahikawa for Asahiyama zoo. The view was beautiful and the train would've been fine except for the headache inducing heat. For some unknown reason in Japan, train companies love to crank the heating up when it's cold outside - this doesn't balance the temperature, but create extremes (leading to coughs and splurges of passengers the country over). It's the same in Thailand/Cambodia with air-con.


Asahiyama Zoo was nearing financial ruin a few years ago, and a renewal exceeded anyone's expectations. Now people flock across Japan to visit the snowy mountainside view.


Again, we'd just missed the peak of winter, so we didn't get to see one of the famous sights - the penguin march, where the zookeepers let the penguins stretch their feet around the zoo twice a day. Since the snow was thawing, the penguins remained in their enclosure.


The busiest exhibit were the polar bears.



Most of the animals were snow-climate related, but they had a good mix of others, including lions who I never realised had incredible coloured eyes, and a few others, including the gorgeous lesser pandas:



Finished with the animals, we took a train back past Sapporo and onto a small town famous for glass-blowing. Otaru has a few interesting architectures.



One of them was home to ear-drum hell. You know those music boxes and spinning tops, imagine two floors of them. Bells, dinging-donging left right and centre. Every kind you could imagine - even sushi!


We walked along the canal area lined with warehouses, and even found a Hello Kitty with my favourite kanji, before heading back to Sapporo. Lots of bears in Hokkaido apparently.


One final stop for dessert before bed.


Of course not! These puddings are incredible; maybe one day I'll be up for the challenge.

Monday, May 12

Image Of The Week #81

An honest l/r mistake just became a whole lot dirtier.

Thursday, May 8

Shake Awake

I must have been shaken awake, but it was a few moments until I realised there was an earthquake. Last night, at 1:45am exactly, an earthquake (6.7) occurred just North off the coast of Tokyo. It lasted about one minute. It's a strange sensation, completely different from someone shaking you. It takes a while to sink in what's going on. The bed is shaking. The room is shaking. The whole building is shaking. And you can feel a thud, a pulse almost, at every change in direction of sway.

It didn't do much damage, a few people injured, but it was big enough to be felt in my apartment which most aren't, since I live in a new building. The most amazing thing was that tv presenters were on screen automatically; they have people doing the news and on earthquake control on all the channels every night?!

Wednesday, May 7

MIA Golden Week

I've been out of action for a while, it was the week-long Golden Week holiday, although two of the official days off fell on the weekend, so it was cut short this year, much to the annoyance of office workers the country over, as well as travel agents who reported slumps compared to previous years.

The first day we went to the Planetarium in Gotanda - I was surprised to see my home station had one, the smallest in Japan in fact, and to my knowledge I've never been to one before. In the community centre, it was pretty tiny, about 20 chairs, but they are closing it for a two year refurbishment, so it should be fab in about 2010; stick it in your diaries!


The view was peaceful and lulling, but I was kept awake by some naughty kids. The most interesting thing was finding out that there is a disputed 13th star sign! Opiuchus, the serpent holder, should come between Scorpio and Sagittarius. It is left out because only his foot crosses the line into the star sign area of the sky and astronomers reject this partial inclusion.


Sunday was the big trip out of Tokyo, and we decided to go to Yamanashi prefecture, about 2 hours West of Tokyo. Mt Fuji and the Five Lakes is the big tourist spot here, and the weather was clear. Sadly, everyone else in Tokyo decided to accompany us there. The train was packed so we had to stand the whole way to Lake Kawaguchi.

The 30 minute bus from the station toward our first destination - the lavender fields - was caught up in heavy traffic. About an hour in, and nowhere near the destination, people complained to the driver and he decided then to tell everyone that it would probably be another two hours before we get there, and no buses had arrived yet. Half the bus got off in the middle of nowhere to wait for a bus coming the other way to take them back. We'd got that far and it seemed better to be stuck on the road to somewhere than stuck on the road to nowhere.

The 'five minute' call finally came from the driver; 30 minutes too early, as we hit another traffic jam! At this point I want to comment that nearly every car had one person in it, if you consider 30 people or so on our bus, and exchange 30 cars for one bus, the traffic would be drastically alleviated. Forget all this plastic-bag, lightbulb, recycling nonsense which is baby steps at its best, we should be pushing for public transport.

Anyway, we decided we weren't moving so we got off the bus to walk the last few miles. At this point, it was about 2pm (we left Tokyo at 8:30!) and our itinerary had gone to pieces; we weren't going to see most of what we'd planned to today. About half of the remaining passengers followed us off the bus, so it was a little embarassing when the traffic started moving and the driver picked us all up again a few minutes later.

On arrival, a collective stop at the toilets; collective in the least 'together' meaning possible of course when talking about toilets. Portaloos in Japan have the old Asian squatting style, so if you ever consider whether a portaloo could be worse, yes they can, you could slip a foot in there. Be warned.

The fields were beautiful, with different shades of lavender spreading out. Mt Fuji was in the background but, sod's law, behind a great cloud.


Here's what it can look like if it's a promotional website partaking in some photoshopping:


On a packed bus, hoping for a quicker journey back to the main train station. From a different side of Fuji, the clouds cleared and it was beautiful. If only we could make it back to the ropeway for a beautiful view from a mountain top.


So we decided to go to one more place before heading home. The bus only took 1 hour, but we just missed a sightseeing bus connection, so at 4:30, we'd been to one place and travelled for a good 6/7 hours. I was getting frustrated and ready to pack it all in.

Missing the connection, we walked down to the ropeway, and stuck in an hour queue, so by the time we made it up the mountain, a cloud rolled over and never let up. Kachi-Kachi mountain has a famous fairytale story; an evil raccoon-dog killed an old man, and as revenge a rabbit sets fire to him, and tries to drown him in a mud boat. As disturbing as it sounds, it's a children's story!


If I'm looking for a silver lining in the cloud, I'm sure there is a figurative one but the literal cloud is in the way. Maybe this is it:


A 3 hour slow train ride home. It was a little disappointing having travelled so far and for not much. I guess it's a lesson that I can't really use much in later life; if you're in Japan over Golden Week, stay in Tokyo.

So Monday, we stayed closer to home, and went to see the koinobori - flying fish, for boy's day -along Sumida River. This display had about 350, as well as a firefighter display and earthquake simulator.


We also went to a nearby flower garden, in Higashimukoujima, which housed some beautiful colours, and then stopped for snacks in Asakusa. One day I'm going to have to learn some flower names.



In the evening, we had ice-cream! Not just any ice-cream, Baskin Robbins' 31, which is incredible. My favourites include Baseball Park (pretzels, popcorn, nuts) and Popping Shower (mint ice-cream with crackling candy pieces). A new department store just opened in Gotanda, lifting it a bit in esteem from the surrounding mega-stations of Shibuya, Shinagawa and Shinjuku. And now we even have a 31 ice-cream store, although that's probably a bad thing for me in the long-run. And for the store's anniversary, all the prices were 31% discounted! Mmm, cheap ice-cream.

The last day of the not-particularly-successful-but-still-fun GW, we hedged our bets and went to... Odaiba. I'll save that for a separate entry.

Image Of The Week #80

(taken in Yamanashi - 4th May, 2008)

Guess The Animal

Outside my apartment this morning:


Keiko thinks it's too big for a rat and she's going for a chihuahua. I'm sticking with rat. Any guesses?

(Suitably, this is post 666)

25 Favourite TV Characters - Results

Impressed with the amount of characters people got right. A lot of them are quite new so they can be excluded. Still unsure who the 25th character should be, even with the Dean Cain fanclub appeal. Here are the answers:


Faith (Buffy the Vampire Slayer) - Kick-ass. Buffy moped towards the end.
Fox Mulder (The X-Files) - Fingers crossed for the new movie, although with Billy Connolly as the bad guy, I'm a little worried.
Ally McBeal (Ally McBeal) - I could've filled this up with every character from this show, but the craziness surrounded her. "I'll miss you most of all"
Sark (Alias) - Popping up every series, it was always a pleasure.
Veronica Mars (Veronica Mars) - She's smarter than you.
John Carter (E.R.) - Nice guys finish last.
Abby Morgan (Dawson's Creek) - None of the psychobabble. Short-lived.
Niles Crane (Frasier) - What a guy.
Chuck (Pushing Daisies) - Anna Friel, what a treat.
Ava Moore (Nip/Tuck) - Another great ensemble, but this 'girl' swooped in, and ruled.
Michelle Dessler (24) - The season 3 hotel storyline was the greatest. All downhill from there.
Alan Partridge (I'm Alan Partridge) - Jurassic Park!
Benjamin Linus (Lost) - I hate him! And then I feel sorry for him! But I hate him. Never has a character caused so much confusion. (Almost Desmond for The Constant episode: either the greatest or worst episode of all time, still not sure which.)
Reginald Perrin (The Rise and Fall Of) - The right kind of grumpy. Su--per.
David Brent (The Office) - The US version really shows how classic ours was.
Jonathan Creek (Jonathan Creek) - One step ahead of the game.
Basil Fawlty (Fawlty Towers) - Don't mention the war.
Angela Chase (My So Called Life) - The original angsty teenager.
Harold Bishop (Neighbours) - Because it's a great ice-breaker when meeting Australians!
Egg (This Life) - Andrew Lincoln also gets special mention for Teachers, but this character was more memorable.
Father Jack (Father Ted) - Feck! Arse!
Alice (The Vicar Of Dibley) - the after-credit jokes are a treat in themselves.
Lorelai Gilmore (Gilmore Girls) - Where did this show spout from? A (pop)cultural reference every sentence.
Baldrick (Blackadder) - I have... a cunning plan.

Thursday, May 1

Hokkaido - Sapporo

The long weekend up north to Hokkaido was a fantastic trip. The plane departed from Haneda Airport, a short monorail from my apartment which made a huge difference to the usual trek out to Narita. As the flight is domestic, checking-in was a breeze and soon we were on the JAL flight. A free drink and a lot of turbulence later, and we landed.

Still mid-March and up north, I was advised to bring plenty of layers. While it was freezing, it wasn't so cold that walking around was a problem. However, there was something off about Sapporo, the capital city and Japan's fifth largest, and host to the Winter Olympics in 1972; tourists were flocking in from the non-stop flights, but we were the only people walking around. Where were all the tourists?


Sapporo is a decent-sized city, I'd say around Amsterdam size, and that it is set in a grid formation makes it a breeze to navigate. Firstly, we checked into the hotel, the Monterey. We had a different hotel each night as we were travelling around, and had to book whatever was available; as it was all part of a package, it didn't make much difference to the price and at least we wouldn't have to stay somewhere if it was bad two nights in a row. The hotel was beautiful, trying to reenact the Sherlock Holmes period, and the room was a good size.


It was just before lunchtime so we dumped our bags and headed out to explore. The first stop was down to the symbol of the city, the Clock Tower. Constructed in 1878 with the clock added three years later, the building served as the drill hall of the Sapporo Agricultural College.


Next on to the Saporro Beer Museum, nestled in the popular red brick warehouse style, for lunch and, err, beer. One of the most delicious meals in Japan is, phonetically spelt, Jin-gis-kan. It is a cook-it-yourself hot plate in the centre, the same as yaki-niku with the vegetables (potatoes, onions, cabbage, leeks, beansprouts etc) but the main meat being lamb. My favourite! For a decent price, it was all you could eat, plus we had Sapporo Beer - yummy.


A bit of research later and I found out that jin-gis-kan is a twisted pronunciation of Genghis Khan! The lamb dish can be translated as a Mongolian BBQ; good fact for quizzes.

Sufficiently stuffed, we went to find the Sake Museum, which of course is a requesite following beer! The snow-lined roads were incredible; luckily it had stopped snowing before we arrived and the sky was pretty blue. Still, no-one around; it was like a ghost town.


We had a free sample of sake, I prefer warm, and bought some sake flavoured sweets. An acquired taste I guess but they quickly become moreish.

The roads were all quite wide and required a lot of patience as each crossing had a traffic light, which we always seemed to just miss. Along one of the horizontal main streets, halfway or so down is a huge park which breaks the city up and adds a bit more open space to it. Odori Park is home to a Snow Festival in the height of Winter, with lots to see. Sadly we missed it as the snow was beginning to thaw and most of the ground was sludgy ice. Still, some pics just to show what it would look like in Winter and Summer:


In the middle of Odori Park is Sapporo TV tower; it's not very impressive compared to any capital city towers around the world due to its size.


Before heading back to the hotel to defreeze for an hour or so, we walked past the Hokkaido Government Building, careful of the possible avalanche.


After it turned dark, we ventured back out and down past the TV Tower, and stopped at Susukino, the entertainment district which was bustling. We ate ramen in the appropriately named Ramen Alley.


Then we worked out where everyone was: although the weather was decent for us, Winter is too cold to be above ground. A whole underground network, covering the centre of Saporro, stretches from the station to Susukino with shops, walkways and links to the small metro system. So while we were braving the cold abover ground, the rest of Sapporo was nice and warm underground! How very Fantastic Mr Fox of the city.


Sapporo is a beautiful city, and worth exploring for a day but you don't need any more than that. It's a very well-set up area, manageable and more practical than Tokyo in ways. For being in the same country, they are worlds apart; in size, population, pace... the cold makes me sleepy, zzzz...
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Thought I'd stick these in, some of me by the TV Tower and on the (melting) snow: