Colour Your Life

After the Nato fiasco, we went back to the apartments and met Steve, from San Diego. He arrived about twenty minutes earlier. He seemed alright, quite loud, but what do you expect from an American. I thought how unwelcoming my first night was so we went out for a drink with him, back into Nash.

The next morning (cutting a long story short) I took Steve to the Ward Office so that he could register. He’s a very nice guy, quite similar in opinions and tastes to me. His favourite film is “Lost In Translation”*. After registering, we took the train down to Yokohama so that we could join the bank there. Yokohama town centre was massive, and we got completely lost. But we finally found the place.

In the bank, there wasn’t much hassle or complications. There was no talk about interest rates or any financial matters. The only thing the staff were really excited about was what colour our cards would be. I don’t think we were as excited about the choice as other customers may have been. I learnt from one of the girls downstairs that many Japanese women are desperate housewives to a point where the highlight of their day, week even, may involve choosing a colour for their bank card. We randomly chose green colours (melon soda and crocodile). Colour Your Life.

The rest of the day was spent looking around and unpacking. In the evening, Steve and I went to Saizeriya, a nearby Italian restaurant done in a Japanese style. It was the worst service so far in Japan. Everywhere else waitresses would fight between themselves to take your order. They’d all smile and ask if you’re OK. However, they just kept on ignoring us. About twenty minutes later, we decided to go and get drinks (free refills from a drinks bar for 120Yen – 60p!) and the waitress started talking to us in an angry tone. Another ten minutes passed and we finally got the attention of one. The same happened again when leaving. In the end, we left the money on the table and walked out. A waitress chased after us so we went back in and handed her the money from off the table where we left it. The food was very cheap and pretty good. Still, we decided that we wouldn’t be going back there. Not a good example of Japanese politeness.

*If you haven’t seen this film yet, it figures very heavily in a few blogs time, so I suggest renting it.

Sign Of The Week #1

It's all Engrish to me. Anyone?

Is It Pinball? No. Is It A Slot Machine? No.

Well actually, it’s both. It’s Pachinko. The craziest game I’ve ever seen. Every third shop is a Pachinko parlour in Tokyo (one of the other two is a Subway or Starbucks) and people sit in them all day making just over average salary rather than working. I’m still not sure what it’s about or how to play, although I’ve tried, so it’s best to direct you to here.

There are two ultimately bizarre things you must know about Pachinko parlours. Firstly, the noise is deafening. Louder than any nightclub I’ve been to. And the majority of the players are the elderly. Secondly, everyone’s trays of silver Pachink balls are just lying in the walkways behind them, and no-one touches them or tries to steal one. It’s a very honest culture. Jody lost her wallet on the train. The next day it was returned with no money missing.

The Marmite Of Japan

On my second day I met Jody, one of the girls who lives downstairs. She had a day off so showed me around Nash. It’s quite a big shopping area, surrounding the station. Food shops, department stores, arcades, second-hand English books, scuba diving centres, gyms, and so on. And rather amazingly, a three-storey bike park. Most of the stations have these shopping areas, which puts into perspective how big central Yokohama and Tokyo are.

There is also a fantastic 99Yen shop, which works out at about 50p, which has everything you can imagine..

We walked down to the next station, Okurayama, where the Ward Office is, so that I could register for my Alien Registration Card. You have to register for everything in Japan: new bikes, changing address, having a baby. Registering was pretty much straight forward although I had to sign twice and each time, the man on the desk said my signatures weren’t similar enough. One “P” was either too curvy or my squiggle was smaller than the other. On the third try I was accepted. I found out about Japanese lessons in the area. 100Yen an hour, although I was told that it was more a big discussion room where you could talk to others interested about learning and pick a topic with them. Nevertheless, it sounds cool.

In the evening, I went with Jody to the 100Yen Sushi conveyor belt restaurant in Nash. Free Green Tea and then every plate is 100Yen. Each plate had two pieces of fish, or one if it’s a more expensive fish. Even at 1000Yen for ten plates, that’s only £5.

I’ve been warned off Nato, Japan’s version of the “love it or hate it” marmite. Nato is fermented beans, which are meant to smell worse than they taste. One Japanese man convinced us to try it, so Jody and I shared a plate. On the count of three we both ate a piece. Bare in mind that it’s rude not to eat a piece of Sushi in one go, so we had to stick the whole thing in our mouths. I broke off about a third of it and tried to swallow. It was the most horrific thing I’ve ever eaten and I immediately regurgitated it. I could hear Jody having problems but knew if I looked at her I’d laugh and possibly throw up. At this point it hit me how much I had in my mouth and that I just had to swallow.
I still feel some of the taste to this day. It’s a once in a lifetime experience. I can always say I survived Nato. But never again.

Misconception #2

“Japanese people are all short”

Many of the Japanese younger generations are taller than expected, although most are still shorter than me. However, the older generations are teeny tiny. And I mean seriously midget sized.

It’s not uncommon for me to be on a train and be the tallest person on there. About half the journeys I’ve done have been like that. It’s so bizarre feeling tall. I can see over everyone. I love it / Dai suki desu!

So far, when holding the hanging hand-bars, I’ve resisted the urge to rest my elbow on an old woman’s head.

The Good, The Bad, And The Ugry

The train from Narita Airport to Tokyo was on time, clean, and the doors opened exactly beneath the signs which indicated they would. In fact, I was told that a few years ago a train was three minutes late. It made the headlines.

I arrived at Shibuya station and met a woman (Toni, assistant manager for NOVA) who took me on the Toyoko line to Tsunashima. It was even cheaper and faster than I thought; £2.10 return from my station to Tokyo and only fifteen minutes each way.

It rained as we reached Tsunash (affectionately to be known as the “Nash” from now on) which was a small home comfort. The walk to my apartment (Bell Wistaria – very similar to Desperate Housewives, but not quite as glamorous) is a ten minute one over a river so it’s perfect. I live in an apartment a road away from the main road, but near a 24-hour convenience store.

The apartment is four sets of flats, three flats high, centered around a small courtyard. I’m sure it’ll be nice in the summer. My apartment is #202 (if you want my address, e-mail me and I’ll send it) and on opening the door, I wasn’t impressed. The place was disgusting. Burnt futons, crockery piled high. Junk everywhere. The bathroom was covered in mould, and I mean things were moulded shut.

But at 10pm when you’re tired and hungry, I wasn’t up for conflict. Toni looked almost as shocked and made a quick getaway, but said to call if I had any problems.

One room was already taken by Bruce, the Australian, who had been there for a year and nine months. I had a quick look inside and it was shocking. He had action figurines set out in army formations. But he had ventured out into communal areas. Every game console was scattered around the lounge. A huge dead plant sat in the corner. Beer cans lined one wall.

I took the other big room, leaving the small broom cupboard for the poor unfortunate soul who was to arrive tomorrow. My room was surprisingly big, with the hugest closet I’ve ever seen. In fact, I’m having a hard time filling the space. More about that later*.

I began to unpack, thinking that a clean-up and some photos on the wall later would give the apartment a home-y feel.

Bruce turned up at about 10pm from his shift. He introduced himself but that was about it. He didn’t offer me a drink or food, just cracked open a beer for himself. He was pretty rude, and made it quite obvious that this was his apartment and I was a guest there. He has the Internet, but isn’t very willing to share, so I still don’t have it**.

I found some food and went to bed, hoping the new guy (see, I’m not even the new guy anymore) would be decent, and maybe he was after a bachelor pad rather than a college dorm.

*This isn’t a nice happy phlog; I’m getting the crappy stuff out of the way first.
**I’m on the very edge of a Japanese guy’s wireless network, but only if I push my laptop up to the window.

DST, anybody, no?

Just to let you know, Japan doesn’t follow Daylight Savings Time, so now I’m only eight hours ahead. Just think, on a typical day, I’ll be ending work just as you’re starting.

Misconception #1

“Sneezing in public is rude”

While it’s not nice to have someone sneeze or phlegm on you anywhere in the world, the Japanese have realised that ‘banning’ sneezing is a little ridiculous. I have been near plenty of sneezers and no-one seems bothered in the slightest.

Leaving On A Jet Plane

I think it’s finally hit me. Phil-San is in Japan!

So much to tell, and I’m not sure how to do I best. Chronologically is the best bet. I’ll start at the very beginning. I hear it's a very good place to start.

I left beautiful sunny Bournemouth on a slightly cold day and Mum waved me off at the coach station (and again just before the Wessex Way) and before anyone could say “Car” I was asleep, waking up just before Heathrow. We were told to be there before 4pm and the best coach arrived at 2:15. Check-out wasn’t until 3 so after a short wait, I had my window seat sorted, my luggage approved (it was just under the limit, pheww), and I was in Duty Free, for a four hour wait.

I got some food, listened to iPhil and bought a bunch of magazines for the plane, ranging from Heat to NewsWeek. See, I can be intellectual too.*

The plane was huge. Unfortunately, I didn’t take any pictures. The last time I heard about people plane-spotting wasn’t the most encouraging of stories. Needless to say, the plane was huge. The rows were seven seats across, and there was some decent leg-room. I checked my little “table clip thing”, which didn’t break. Take-off would have been fine if not for one of the overhead storage compartments opening mid-runway. Some people really freaked out over that, but nothing fell out, so it wasn’t really worth mentioning. Only I did, and now you know.

The service was pretty fantastic. Non-stop drinks (fizzy, soft, beer, wine) and cool Japanese crackers. The meals were amazing: Sushi for dinner! Breakfast was a little more random: a vegetable lasagne and potato wedges. The films were OK, although I didn’t watch a whole one. Actually, I didn’t do much. I’m not quite sure what I did for twelve hours, but it passed fairly fast.

I slept for about three hours from midnight onwards, when they turned the lights off and shut all the windows. It was bizarre though because we were flying into day, so by 3am British time, it was light over Russia. Fantastically, the sky was cloudless. I wish I had pictures of the Russian mountains; so uninhabitable yet so enticing.

We flew over the Sea of Japan and then over Japan itself, near enough longitudinally. It is such a narrow country compared to its length. But they say size isn’t important, it’s what you do with it that counts. And so far, I like what I’ve seen.

*To this moment, I have only read Heat.

I'm Alive

I think I worked out how to write now.. yep. Sorry about the e-mail, this internet cafe is all in Japanese and my mouse keeps lighting up and doing weird things.

I have some blogs ready to put on once I get connection sorted, which shouldn't be too long, but just to say that I'm fine and loving it here. So many misconceptions yet so many crazy things to tell you too.

I've just read that I might die any day now:　http://www.timesonline.co.uk/article/0,,1-2101871,00.html - "If radioactive substances are released, the dangers of infringing upon personal rights upon residents will exceed a tolerable level."　Ah well, or rather, ah so.

Take care x phil-san

Sayonara and Bon Voyage

Wow, what a crazy week. I've had very little sleep but some really good meals, nights out. Plus belly dancing, Polish food, origami...

It's a sad reason to rush around seeing everyone but it was so nice to spend time with most of you this week (and Ian, Andrew, Jed, Roz and Mike a few weeks earlier).

Thanks for all the cards and texts and support. As Andrew put it "it's a mixture of sadness and gladness" and it's so true. I'm really excited about going, and it's finally setting in. Yet at the same time, it's hitting me that it's a year. But three years of Uni flew by so I'm sure it won't feel like long until I'm back and you're bored of Japan stories.

I'll put some photos of this week up when I'm settled. I'm not sure how quick I'll get internet access, but I'll find a cafe to let you know I arrived safely.

I'd say have a great year but technology means I'll only be an e-mail away.
xx

The 12 Hour Flight

Half a day to occupy. I have iPhil, a book, my laptop has The Constant Gardener and Hostel on it (and should last for about one of those films, fingers crossed), and the plane has a few films. Interestingly, they went for Harry Potter 4 and Lord Of The Rings: Fellowship Of The Ring which, if both watched, would take up half the flight. Other films include North Country, Zorro, Balzac and The Little Chinese Seamstress (not as kinky as it sounds), and the brilliantly brilliant Corpse Bride.

Bizarrely, they also have Forrest Gump, Godfather III, First Wives Club, and Flashdance.

Well, no Final Destination. Would've been a laugh...

Phil-San: Heavyweight

I'm a light traveller. I had the least amount compared to everyone else doing Camp America. I lived out of a backpack for a summer around Europe. But I'm 10 kilos above my limit for the plane. Huh?!? Does this look like a lot of stuff to you? For a year, remember.

I've taken some things out, mainly books and my backpack, and I'm on 37 kilos (the limit is 35). I guess that will have to do. Wish me luck.

This Is A Plug

I bought a Universal Adaptor for iPhil* so what better way to celebrate the wonder of technology than play a little game. Answers in the comments section, if you will.

Which Continents/Countries are supported by the following plugs? More specifically, which supports Japan?

#1 has two flat-prongs, #2 is a three-pronged delight, #3 is curvy, and #4 is a slant on number one. (Click to enlarge)






*Does that really need explaining?

The Phil-S(an) Have Eyes

Not much is going on but thought I should put something new on here, and practice my links. So, a film review and Japanese lesson rolled into one.

Ichi - One
Following the current trend to (badly) remake every horror film from the 70s, another comes along. The latest breed, such as Scream have been both self-referential and self-aware. However, the joke wore old and now we revert to the old style: truly shocking and disturbing set-pieces which reflect sociological and psychological conflict. The Hills Have Eyes stands alongside Wolf Creek and Hostel in leading this new batch.

Ni - Two
Stranded in the middle of the desert, a family is attacked by a group of deformed cannibals. Just as with Wolf Creek, the establishing scenes allow for dramatic irony; the family’s false sense of security only adds to the sadistic torment we face when the true nature of their situation dawns. Simple and effective.

San - Three
The casting is fantastic, especially Emilie de Ravin who uncannily resembles Susan Lanier as Brenda. The direction, plotting, and scares are all fine. The centre-piece in the trailer is pleasingly (for a horror fan) horrific, and seems relatively unedited. However, the film loses part of what the original thrived on.

Yon/Shi - Four
Wes Craven saw the 1977 version as a reflection of the ego and id fighting for superiority. The remake is less subtle, instead focusing on the determination found when protecting the notion of family. This is fine, except for the twenty or so extra minutes towards the end in the town, which resorts to mindless Hollywood violence.

Go - Five
A very decent remake, worth seeing with the lights down low, the sound up, and a nice long walk through the woods home.

I give this film: Yon / Go

Push your red button now

Ok, so it's not that interactive yet. Time for a game. Can everyone leave three items in the comments section that I should pack with me. I'm sure I'm missing stuff. I'll get the ball rolling.

The rules:
- it can be as specific or general as you like*
- it has to be three items each. No more, no less.
- you can't say the same as someone else.

*However, saying "toothbrush" is a lot more useful than "toiletries".

Random Observation #1

Stepping onto an escalator that isn't working makes you slightly lose balance. Freaky.

Phil-San, CoE

Not to be confused with CoT (cup of tea). I have a Certificate of Eligibility and a Visa, which allow me to work and live in Japan for a year. And I'm even a Specialist in Humanities!

I went to London on Thursday morning, for an orientation at NOVA headquarters, on Regent Street. We had talks on teaching (smile), what to expect when we get there (people will meet us), what to pack (everything is illegal, even Vick's nasal sprays!), and a Japanese lesson. This was reassuring because we were told that we could get by on the few sentences (and smiling) taught in this hour, and I knew it. Not to say that I'm proficient at Japanese, but I was surprised that no-one else in the class of fifteen had bothered to learn a bit of Japanese.

Following the orientation, we headed down to the Japanese Embassy at the end of Piccadilly, opposite Green Park. Compared to the American Embassy ("Are you a threat?", "Can you guarantee you will leave the country when your Visa expires?"), it was a walk in the park. All they wanted was my passport, CoE, and a Visa form.

I got the tube back to Waterloo (the stereotype of London can't be faulted; it rained) and met up with Roz (auntie, godmother), who manages an aphasia support organisation. A CoT (yeah?) later and we met up with Mike (uncle, godfather) at Golders Green for a really really nice meal. Sugoi Oishii!

I stayed overnight with them, and the next day, saw Capote in Shaftesbury Ave, which was £2 cheaper than seeing a film in Bournemouth. Really enjoyed it, but wholly depressing. Haven't quite made my mind up why yet but it has something to do with the state of human nature.

My passport arrived today. Complete with Visa and CoE.

T(r)ying Up Loose Ends

It's one of those bullet point days:

- Hand smart trousers in for dry cleaning.
- Hand old fallen-apart disposable camera in.
- Grey clouds loom on walk to train station.
- Buy train ticket for London. Ticket for Stoke is £50.
- Odeon. Give back work uniform, washed and ironed.
- Four new people at work*.
- Walk home in rain.
- Realise I need smart trousers for Japanese Embassy tomorrow.
- Sign up for online banking.
- Buy ticket for Stoke online for £21.30. Idiot train-man.
- Book vegetarian meal for flight. Flight was booked for two.
- Forgot to get special delivery pre-paid envelope for passport.
- At post office the woman gives me recorded delivery instead.

On the bright side, today means I now have clean trousers, photos, transport to London and Stoke, online banking, food on a 12 hour flight^TM, and 96p worth of stamps I can't use.

*Nice to know it takes four people to replace me. That three others left is besides the point.

Yo-o-o-klahoma

I've got to get that out of my head. Yokohama. Yokohama. Oklahoma. D'oh.

Changing Rooms

*updated*

I've taken some baby steps towards packing, beginning with sorting out my room and trying to cut down on its contents. After all, Japanese rooms are traditionally much smaller and minimalist in comparison. It's always strange binning things that link us to the past, but I'm embracing the change. Phil's belongings: no mercy.

And it's raining outside. Today sucks.

Things I'll miss about my room - my touch-sensitive lamp, my speakers, my sink, my posters (Eternal Sunshine, Neve Campbell), my bed. Most of all, my clock. I love it.

Quick update (11:20pm). I filled three bin bags full of things I forgot I had or grew out of; clothes, uni notes, junk, photo negatives etc. I also learnt how to playback photos and videos from my camera through my TV. All my drawers are either empty or tidy, left with the clothes I actually wear, counted £6.84 in change I'd been hoarding (which would've been enough for the cinema 2 weeks ago), and now I'm going to sleep remembering that I lived out of Sue Suitcase in America and Rucky Rucksack around Europe. See, I'm embracing.

Freakily, my Eternal Sunshine poster fell down today. It seems to be a sign. Of what, I'm not quite sure...

And the winner is...

Really?! Crash!? It was my favourite film of 2005, however I just can't see it as "Best Picture". Then again, Million Dollar Baby (2004) was a good film but is it really a modern day classic?

Apart from that, no big surprises. I agree more with the BAFTAs, both in results and style. I had a hunch that Brokeback exhausted itself with all the earlier award ceremonies. The Oscars was yet again a big pile of drivel.

Sweet Home Yokohama

My accommodation details arrived today. I was previously told I would be in the Kanto region of Honshu, the main area dominated by Tokyo on the main of the four islands that make up Japan. However, I am in the second largest city in Japan, Yokohama.

This location seems to be the best of both worlds: I don't have to face the public transport problems of Tokyo in and out of work every day, yet the train is 25 minutes between Tokyo and Yokohama. As an added bonus, I'll be next to the sea*.

So far, Yokohama sounds a lovely place:

Yokohama is a lively city famous for its international flavour. The arrival of the first western ships 150 years ago turned it into the country's most important port. Westerners were encouraged to settle here, and there is still a large western community. Yokohama is now Japan's second largest city and a vital commercial and industrial hub.

The city itself is very pleasant. It has the largest Chinatown in Japan, and people come here to imbibe the exotic atmosphere and dine on the country's best Chinese food.

- Thomas Cook, Traveller's Guide, 2004

The actual part of Yokohama I will be staying in is a short walk from Tsunashima on the Tokyu-Toyoko Line, which is the main train line running between Narita Airport, Tokyo and Yokohama Centre. Which is nice.

Click to enlarge. The light green line is Tokyuo-Toyoko. Northbound is Tokyo.

The other main feature of Yokohama is Minato Mirai 21:

...an ever evolving world of shopping malls and restaurants. At its heart is the 972ft landmark Tower, the tallest in Japan, Queens Mall and the attractive Meiji-style Aka Renga Soko which offers daily cultural events. It is worth paying for the fastest lift ride in the world up the Tower to have a look at Mount Fuji.

-Globetrotter, Travel Pack, 2005

Pretty damn awesome. And Mount Fuji in the background topping it all off. Of course, I'll put my own pictures on here soon, but this should whet your appetite. I'm a very excited boy.


*It's difficult not to be by the sea in Japan; although 3,000km in length, it is a very narrow country. Still, it was the one (geographical) thing missing at Uni.

Sort of to Flightplan

My flight is booked, confirmed, paid for, and ready for take-off. Everything went smoothly apart from the guy telling me the flight was fully booked, until he realised it was because Nova had booked it up (including a seat for me). Phew.

Stupidly, I just realised I forgot to ask for a vegetarian meal. Or three; considering it's a 12 hour flight^TM. A simple phone call tomorrow will rectify that.

(I know the link sends you to a different "cat and mouse" Foster thriller but this one's much much better. And it makes sense with the title, coincidentally.)