Phil-San (Is Trying To Be) In Japan: February 2008

“It’ll be a journey of self-discovery”, I said, while flailing my hands wildly. Just after 8am on Saturday morning, I’m not sure if I was convincing Keiko or myself.

“What?”

Not the “what” of confusion. The “what” of cynicism. I like to think that I taught a Japanese girl the phrase “self-discovery” rather than British disdain.

Anyway, arms are flailing.

“You know, we’ll both discover something that we didn’t know before the beginning of this adventure. This journey. Like… I don’t know… a complete circle and we end back where we started, at home. Or something like that.”

Hopefully, not that because, well, that’s rather pointless.

But there was a point, a discovery, one that I didn’t know yet. And neither will you unless you read on.

My aim, for the 29 stations, the 34.5 kilometres, including lunch and dinner, and subsequent toilet breaks was 12 hours.

The figures are as follows:
Station number – Name – Time of arrival – Distance km (Total distance km) – (Total time)

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0. GOTANDA STATION – 8:15 – 0 (0) – (00:00)

A few minutes from our apartment to the home station, the start and finish. The time was marked and off we trotted. Trotted? Is that a word?

The line ran along the river and we passed a few landmarks; a large gnome with a large hat. Which set the sentiment for the rest of the way, I suppose.

1. OSAKI STATION – 8:35 – 0.9 (0.9) – (00:20)

The most Southern point on the Yamanote line, with the transfer towards Odaiba!

This station was confusing for the very fact that the name was not visible anywhere. All signs read North Exit and so on. It took 5 minutes traipsing around just to find it. We were going to have to be much luckier than that, otherwise that would amount to a lot of time wasted.

It was also here that logic hit me – we would have to, not that I’d considered it properly, walk the entire length of each station. That sounds so obvious I’m sure, but how often do you actually ever do that? Which posed a problem – do I record the time of arrival, or the time of departure? And what happens to those minutes in between? (Some of the stations took nearly 10 minutes to cross!)

I stuck with arrival time.

Onwards, and upwards (there was a steep slope), we found ourselves in an estate, dead ends all around. This did not bode well seeing as it was the area of the Yamanote we were most acquainted with. This wasted quite a bit of time, and we ended up taking a long but only way round.

I blame Keiko, as her job was “short-cuts”. Mine was “time-recording and fact-giving”. Actually, I chose that particular route, but it’s my blog so who’s to stop me.

This was the second longest stretch, at 2km, but Shinagawa station was in sight.

There are six major stations around the Line. This was the first. Shinagawa actually means a conglomerate of rivers, but it would be more suitable to exchange rivers for railways:

2. SHINAGAWA STATION – 9:10 – 2.0 (2.9) – (00:55)

A big choice had to be made; walk on the inside or outside of the track. We opted for inside most of the time – slightly shorter and less dangerous to veer too far off track, but it depended on each section and how complicated the roads were.

Or if there were rivers in the way:

This was the longest leg, 2.2km, so long in fact that a middle station will open in 2010. The year, that is. So, that was the two furthest sections in the first three stations. I’m glad we got them out of the way early, although it was mentally disheartening as we hadn’t moved far down the list of stations but had walked for a disproportionate length of time.

South East is Tokyo Tower area, so this was uplifting:

3. TAMACHI STATION – 9:40 – 2.2 (5.1) – (1:25)

A shorter stretch which featured a serious case of “Don’t mention the war” whilst Keiko searched for a toilet. Every conversation I started featured water or bathrooms. Sometimes even not on purpose!

I thought she became pensive and was discovering something(!) but actually she was just holding back from becoming grumpy. Keiko tried this building; I’ll leave the name to explain whether it was successful:

The next block, mission accomplished.

A pigeon about to get wet, and some "green space":

4. HAMAMATSUCHO STATION – 10:05 – 1.5 (6.6) – (1:50)

Across from Hama-Rikyu Gardens and the closest to Sumida River. Inside the station, I saw the Japan Railways mascot, the Suica penguin. Suica is the card system they use, much like the Oyster or Octopus but with no benefits whatsoever except for ease of use.

Suica means “watermelon”. Go figure.

We cut through the underground passage to the next station.

5. SHIMBASHI STATION – 10:25 – 1.2 (7.8) – (2:10)

This adjoins to ‘future-world’ (Shiodome) and the driverless monorail system. There is also a train monument on the other side. Over Christmas, Santa sits onboard.

We had a 5 minute break at the juice bar. Banana. Mmmm.

Leaving at 10:30 (2:15).

The train line merged to the most interesting from here for the next two stops. You can walk alongside the old brick platform with restaurants and bars built into the arches underneath. Before then, the line had mostly been at ground level and fenced off.

6. YURAKUCHO STATION – 10:50 – 1.1 (8.9) – (2:35)

A bit of a detour to see Godzilla – I’ll save that for its own post. We also went to a sweet shop to buy some Hokkaido-only (North Japan) toffee. Yurakucho joins onto the shopping district of Ginza and it was quite a busy area.

Still, only a short walk to the second of the major stations.

7. TOKYO STATION – 11.05 - 0.8 (9.7) – (2:50)

All lines lead to Tokyo station, is the lesser-known catchphrase. But it’s true – ‘up’ signs in train stations mean the train is heading towards Tokyo. Actually, the third busiest station in the capital, it’s a strange layout. Most of the exits lead to Marunouchi – the up and coming business district (in front of the Imperial Palace) and that’s what the majority of signs said. It was difficult to find the name at all.

But we’d reached the 10km mark!

The building is much like an old clock station, such as with Amsterdam, but it has been under constant construction since I’ve been here.

The next route was quite nasty – under the train along a dark passage.

8. KANDA STATION – 11:20 – 1.3 (11) – (3:05)

Lots of old bookshops here. We also decided to stop for an early lunch at the traditional… Burger King.

A 40 minute break, feeling rather good that we were ahead of schedule, but nervous that we were soon to walk into unknown territory, the North of Tokyo. Also known fondly by Keiko as “not the happy side of Tokyo”.

Leaving at 12:00 (3:45)

One of the most interesting things about this walk was that I kept encountering sections of road or areas that I hadn’t realised were there but I’d been to before. Much like Tsunashima seems a distant memory, many of my earlier trips getting lost in Tokyo seemed a blur and this brought back a lot. It was here that I crossed a bridge and it all flashed back – here had been one of my first explorations.

We became quite relaxed on following the train lines and stopped paying much attention to the trains after a while. Something didn’t feel right as the line curved left. Luckily we crossed a main road at that point and, even luckier, a Yamanote train rushed past. On a different track a few 100 metres away. We’d veered off to another line. Oops. Still, it was a really short distance to the next stop, probably our quickest leg.

9. AKIHABARA STATION - 12:10 – 0.7 (11.7) – (3:55)

Electric district with a distinct lack of girls dressed up as maids.

After that, the buildings and shopping centres slowly diminished as we walked further North. We crossed a highway, this guy helped block the traffic for us.

10. OKACHIMACHI STATION – 12:25 – 1.0 – (12.7) – (4:10)

The beginning of the Ameyoko market – where the Black market began after WWII. A very cool place for bargains and groceries, but also the busiest along the entire route, which slowed us down. Ameyoko carried on until Ueno station.

11. UENO STATION – 12:40 – 0.6 (13.3) – (4:25)

Ueno is known for its park and zoo. Which sounds like a pay and display. Which, considering this next picture, could be confused for.

Ueno also marked the border of the most Northern part of Tokyo I’d been to on the East side.

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“Have you discovered anything about yourself yet?”
“No. Have you?”
“No. Keep trying.”

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I don’t want to offend anyone living in North Tokyo that reads this blog (as if!) but name me a famous tourist site. There really isn’t anything of interest to see up there, and I would consider that it is the most residential and suburban part, adding to the number of people. I also thought it would be the toughest stretch because, yes it was new to us, but also the roads would be more complicated.

“It’s a missile”.
I scoffed at that statement. Obviously a crane on a building site.
“I think it’s a missile”, Keiko argued again.
“Yeah right, I seem to have misplaced my missile. I wonder where it is…”

And then I saw this sign.

I think too much walking was doing strange things to my head. But I wasn’t alone, when Keiko then asked:

“When do we get to Ueno?”

12. UGUISUDANI STATION - 12:55 – 1.1 (15.5) – (4:40)

Old and faded - suspicions correct.

This was it. A Yamanote station. And it was pretty depressing. And stereotype-enforcing.

A whole taxi outside.

On a slope, we could see into the distance. Miles and miles of train tracks spreading out, and not much colour going on. Keiko, I don’t think we’re in South Tokyo anymore. (I battled with myself whether to write that line as I’m going to nominate it for the most overused blog heading – I know I have already. Even Dan did in one of his four posts, which is therefore definitive!)

Down into the town, it was disorientating as we lost our bearings. We had to walk, with heads hung low, through an estate of love hotels. This really was the seediest area of Tokyo. Every building was offering a few hours “rest”. A few couples were scouting out the prices and women were standing on the streets (waiting? Advertising?).

“Honest, we really didn’t want to use a love hotel. We’re trying to walk around the train line”, is a terrible sounding excuse.

We walked to the inside track and ventured into a cemetery, as you do. We passed a gothic photo-shoot, hoping that we hadn’t entered a dead end (pun intended) and would have to walk past them. “Honest, we really didn’t want to traipse around a cemetery. We’re trying to walk around the train line”, isn’t much better.

13. NIPPORI STATION – 1:20 – 1.1 (15.5) – (5:05)

Not very exciting, and the clouds rolled over. Up ‘til then, it had been sunny, to the point where coats were off! Rain would suck.

This is the shortest section at 0.5km. Which would be great if it was a straight forward route, but it meant crossing several temples and cemeteries. This would be the creepiest area of the Yamanote. The ten minute stretch felt much longer.

14. NISHI-NIPPORI STATION – 1:30 – 0.5 (16.0) – (5:15)

Again, rather boring. Very hilly. Some ugly clothes. Both on and off people.

What a view!

15. TABATA STATION – 1:45 – 0.8 (16.8) – (5:30)

How crap is this station! And the clouds only added to the shittiness of the place. Around here is the area with the most number of parallel train lines (16, I think). We crossed over and the Yamanote came to say hi and give us some motivation.

And the rain fell.

THE HALF WAY POINT!! (both station number-wise, and distance-wise)

16. KOMAGOME STATION – 2:05 – 1.6 (18.4) – (5:50)

Part of the station had just had a refurb, but it didn’t detract from obviously being as scummy as the surrounding area. Is that a bed-bug?

Where were all the people? The shops? Apparently, this stretch of track has one of the highest suicide rates.

17. SUGAMO STATION – 2:15 – 0.7 (19.1) – (6:00)

My feet started to hurt at this point. At least the rain had stopped. The station was really old and this was the most modern sign I could find. The area is famous for being the “Old Ladies’ Harajuku” – the fashionable district for the modern woman. Maybe they were in shops, but no-one was around. Where was everyone?

This man was trying to trick us. It was the wrong way! And the compass didn't help much either.

The roads became complicated and it was the only time I resorted to looking at my map. We had to keep crossing over bridges to avoid dead ends, moving from the inside to the outside and back again.

18. OTSUKA STATION – 2:35 – 1.1 (20.2) – (6:20)

20km! And turning from West to a South direction.

(As you can see, the signs in the top half of the Yamanote Line are all pretty dated, some faded.)

Another force of nature – the wind started up. And not just a light breeze. A dust storm which covered our faces in dirt. I’m glad I’m not a girl wearing sticky lipsalve. That would suck! Bikes blew over and bags/newspaper flew past us. A freak storm!

But there was a nice motivation for persevering: back into the “Happy side of Tokyo”. One more struggle to overcome. Our train was in the middle of all these lines and we had no idea which way to go. A train Spaghetti Junction. Imagine the end scene of Labyrinth with bridges. And dust.

Also, I learnt a valuable piece of information with this sign.

We suddenly veered off track and passed through a subway. I asked Keiko why she turned and she told me she hadn’t; I had turned. Something struck a chord, and I stored this moment as something that will become more important later.

Keiko became a tiny bit short with me when she couldn’t find a toilet.

19. IKEBUKURO STATION – 3:10 – 1.8 (22.0) – (6:55)

The second busiest station in Tokyo and the fourth major on the Yamanote (Shinagawa, Tokyo, Ueno, Ikebukuro). Surrounded by department stores, we stopped in one for a toilet break. Keiko, being a girl, took a disproportionate length of time – the excuse being she was in a queue and then had to clean the dirt off her face. It was fine as I could stand in the accessories section and watch a demonstration on how to tie a wrap/scarf properly. I was offered an accompanying instruction leaflet but politely declined.

It was the most difficult station to find a normal JR sign.

Leaving at 3:30 (7:15).

Circling the department stores took some time but it was heartening to see civilisation again. We stumbled at a dead end when Keiko did her magic and found… a shortcut!

20. MEJIRO STATION – 3:45 – 1.2 (23.2) – (7:30)

The station looked like a church, with this stained glass display. I should also note that Mejiro is one of the only two stations that serves the Yamanote Line only and has no transfers. A University area – these Kendo players were on a break.

The walk was one of the most pleasant, as it was tree-lined. And would you know it, the sun came out! We also made a friend, saw an out-of-place church, and a monkey-man (from Planet of the Apes?):

21. TAKADANOBABA STATION – 4:05 – 0.9 (24.1) – (7:50)

We started to slow down here, and my camera came out less. There was an interesting band outside the station. And a Panda.

22. SHIN OKUBO STATION – 4:25 – 1.4 (25.5) – (8:10)

I hope my lack of description recently has not been confused as laziness, but reflects that we were both running out of steam. We’d been going for over 8 hours. We both admitted, at roughly the same time, that we needed a break at the next station.

(Shin Okubo is the second station not to have any transfers.)

Being the largest and busiest in Tokyo (1 million passengers a day), Shinjuku was a beast, with over 60 exits. We decided to clamber on and stop on the other side of the station, a small victory in itself.

23. SHINJUKU STATION – 4:50 – 1.3 (26.8) – (8:35)

That 25 minutes to walk just over 1km is a reflection of the crazy size of the station. We stopped at the Southern Terrace (between the South Exit and New South Exit) with the Skyscrapers and Metropolitan Government Building to the right.

Krispy Kreme had the usual 2 hour queue so we had a Starbucks coffee.

Leaving at 5:10 (8:55).

Feeling refreshed.

The sun came down fast, and the plan was to walk the next three and arrive at Shibuya before dark.

24. YOYOGI STATION – 5:15 – 0.7 (27.5) – (9:00)

The shortest leg in terms of time, mostly because we started so South of Shinjuku station. And into close-to-home territory. The station is located next to Meiji Park, with the large gates at the entrances and the shrine in the middle.

25. HARAJUKU STATION – 5:40 – 1.5 (29.0) – (9:25)

One of my favourite areas, with all the kids dressed up in crazy costumes. Not much going on as night was already falling.

Still no declarations of self-discovery, and I was starting to worry. Was this all a waste of time?

We veered a little off-course into Shibuya town (with the crossroads) and had an early dinner (follows an early lunch) at the Outback Steakhouse – we had to treat ourselves, of course. Plus it meant I could have a much deserved jacket potato!

I’m not sure how the times worked here because we stopped at mid-leg, so I won’t record how long dinner was. 1 hour. I just did.

I stood up after the meal and my legs felt tight. The heel of my right foot jabbed and I knew that I had to ignore the blister for the last 3 stations.

Now night-time, the temperature had dropped considerably.

I did see a castle!

26. SHIBUYA STATION – 7:05 – 1.2 (30.2) – (10:50)

The last of the six major stations; it was at this point when I felt impressed with how far we’d come. It seemed a long time since I was worrying that the first stations were taking too long.

Just over an hour to do the last three stations, the race was on.

I’m glad we went anti-clockwise as I’ve walked this route so many times so it was easy to navigate at night.

We entered Ebisu district which is quite a posh place full of celebrities, and the Ebisu-san god statue outside the station.

27. EBISU STATION – 7:35 – 1.6 (31.8) – (11:20)

The station joins a long (inside) sky-walk towards Ebisu Garden Place, an office area and home to Yebisu Beer. We walked along the travellators , content that we were walking alongside the train track-ish.

Over the next stretch, I could see a lit-up Tokyo Tower in the background, but it was too cold to remove my hands from my pockets. Much like the Alanis Morissette song – “I’ve got one hand in my pocket, and the other one is in the other pocket”. Again, ish.

28. MEGURO STATION – 7:55 – 1.5 (33.3) – (11:40)

The penultimate station, and the final burst home!

20 minutes left. Were we to make it under 12 hours?.. (Tense, I’m sure.)

The crazy thing about this last leg is that our apartment is just before Gotanda station on this side. All instincts to veer off and stop, but we kept going.

The perfect time to reflect.

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“So, what did you discover?”
“Let me think about it. What about you?”

What did I discover? And then I realised how that information I stored earlier came back as the final piece in the puzzle:

“Trust my instincts. My New Year’s Resolution was to trust my instincts and, all day, I did. Like when we instinctively passed under that tunnel by Ikebukuro. It worked out.”

I think that’s a pretty worthwhile self-discovery. Anyway, to Keiko.

“What did you discover?”
“That I get grumpy when I need the toilet.”

Baby steps.

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And then, bright lights at the end of the track.

29. GOTANDA STATION – 8:10PM – 1.2 (34.5) – (11:55)

GOAL! YATTA!

We made it. And under 12 hours! 11 hours, 55 minutes to be exact.

It was a great feeling.

The hot bath after was even better.