Monday, June 16

Hydrangeas, Farewell Kamakura

Rudely awakened by the earthquake on Saturday morning*, I didn't feed the pigeons but I did cook pancakes (which gave me a sense of enormous well-being - ok, lyrics over). I'd missed the hydrangea season in Kamakura for the last two years so third time lucky and I headed down there. Usual story; so did the rest of Tokyo.

Kamakura, the Buddha and Enoshima have been a great getaway for me, my usual haunt to escape the metropolis of Tokyo and clear my head. I'm pretty sure, unless inspiration/frustration hits, this weekend was my last time before I leave. I've been so many times now I feel fortunate more than anything, and so confident with the area a tour guide fallback position is not out of the question.

Surrounded by a cascade of multi-coloured hydrangeas:





There are a few hotspots for the hydrangeas around the area, firstly in Kita-Kamakura at Meigetsu-in, which is nothing special the rest of the year round. The flowers here varied slightly in colour but for some unknown reason, the temple tries to keep to a blue theme.


The temple also housed a zen rock garden and bamboo trees.


After that, I experienced the train-door-slamming-in-my-face-bone-crushing-glove-pushing from that video a few posts back on the electric railway. A frail old lady had been taken to the front to be saved one of the seats by a guard, but it's true that the Japanese are polite except when near a train, and was almost trampled over.

A quick sayonara to the Buddha:


On to Joujuin, another rather unspectacular temple 15 minutes walk from the Buddha. The temple is built up the top of a slope which would be a slug otherwise but it was here that the hydrangeas lined the path, and the view behind was over the coast. The colours were magnificent.


The final stop was Enoshima, a brisk walk over the Island stopping for a wasabi-seaweed rice cracker (much nicer than it sounds) and then back home. A few more flowers, if you haven't had enough:




A slice of heaven.

*the landslides have sadly resulted in 10 deaths, and counting.

The Japanese Have Ears

Standing in an hour-long queue for sushi last night, I mulled over a way to reduce the waiting time: Chinese Whispers that the chef had diarrhoea and continued to touch the fish. Gross I know, and sadly the old lady in front of me left pretty quickly. I'm sure it was pure coincidence.

Actually my seat was in a direct line with one of the chefs battering a lobster to death. Now that's what I call fresh!

I know a much worse sushi-related real story, but I'll only tell you if you want to hear it.

Friday, June 13

One Man's Pain...

Thought I'd check out a clip from this year's Big Brother.* The people had just failed a task and were to be given a small food budget for the next week. They were moaning that they'd be stuck with jacket potatoes and tuna every day.

Wait. That's a problem?

*Last reference to UK TV; I'm weaning my way back to Britain.

Thursday, June 12

True Colours

I don't think I have to exclaim any more my love for all things Japan. Turning Japanese included but swiftly moving on. Instead, a look at the aspect of Japan that I find the most hideous.

The News.

News in Japan is disgusting, repugnant and everything similar a thesaurus will spout out. International reports are almost nonexistent, and small-scale stories are blown out of proportion by the media to the extent where a pointless issue is focused on for, literally, weeks on end. I think it was when Mum was here that a small plane had crashed (no-one died) and every time we turned on the TV that week, the same clip was being shown. This isn't that important.

What is terrible is the way the paparazzi/journalists treat people in the spotlight and how this ties into the problem of assigning blame. Take the Akihabara problem last weekend; instead of looking to hard-hitting social issues, the parents are interviewed and take responsibility for what happened.

The following is tough to watch, and makes my blood boil. Be warned.


I don't know how everyone just lets that poor woman fall to the ground and struggle her way back inside while continuing taking photos. It's shameless and horrific.

Role Model

The future's here (see comments a few posts back) and The Apprentice is revealed. And what a terrible example of a winner. Not because he is illiterate. Not because he can't string a sentence together. Not because he bullied a woman. Not even because his motivating exercise is to squawk like a pterodactyl.

No, because he couldn't even be bothered to use a spell checker.

Image Of The Week #85

You gotta wonder - is this a dare or your average day-off cry of individuality?

(taken in Odaiba - 6th May, 2008)

Wednesday, June 11

Livin' La Fiesta Loca

I was reading about the 'World's Wackiest Festivals', and not surprised to see Japan featured (although the UK and Spain featured twice each!). I would've assumed that the Penis Festival was the event of choice, but instead it was the more general naked festival, where men usually wear loincloths and bond 'Top Gun-style'. The part I didn't know is that there is often one completely naked guy in the middle and touching him will bring good luck and happiness.


The article doesn't state where touching him counts. Some things are better left unsaid (or left to the imagination, if you wish).

1. El Colacho: the Baby-Jumping Festival (Spain)
2. Hadakamatsuri: The Naked Festival (Japan)
3. Up Helly-Aa: the Fire Festival (Shetland Islands)
4. The Monkey Buffet Festival (Thailand)
5. Holi: the Festival of Colors (India)
6. Cheese Rolling Festival (England)
7. Maslenitsa: free-for-all boxing match (Russia)
8. Tunarama: the Tuna Tossing Festival (Australia)
9. Roswell UFO Festival (USA)
10.La Tomatina (Spain)

Monday, June 9

Mt Mitake

A new tourist find: a mountain just under two hours outside of Tokyo. A short bus from the station to the cable-car which took us up a further 300 metres in a couple of minutes. It wasn't as steep as the Peak in Hong Kong, but smoother.


At the top of Mt Mitake (929 metres), after a 20 minute climb sat a Shrine and a few gift shops. There were also some hostels/onsen hotels but not much else in the way of civilisation.


It was peaceful with a beautiful scenic view over Tokyo in the distance.


The 'sugi' trees (responsible for the hayfever in Tokyo) were unbelievable. They spanned upwards and upwards:


There were several hiking routes to follow and, accidentally or not, we covered most of them, which was much harder than expected. In the distance, I saw a group climbing over a precarious rock. Clambering over roots and slipping on yesterday's rain, it was exciting, with a last crawl up to the top.


Down a bit towards the rock garden and against the river towards the first waterfall. Standing by the edge of the plungepool, the breeze from the water was extraordinary, you could feel the wind rush past.


Not sure how Keiko noticed, but this dead insect was camouflaged among the other leaves.


A short break for fresh water; gushing hard it was a skill to not come away soaked.


A second waterfall before the difficult last uphill leg, a neverending muddy staircase but we were rewarded with ramen/curry-rice for lunch.



Back at the station, we walked towards the gloriously-blue river that flowed from the mountain; there were kayaks and picnics and it was a generally nice area. The amazing thing is that this is the river that I worked near during Nova. Not the Tsurumi river in Tsunashima but the next one, the Tama river, that divides Tokyo and Yokohama.

Sunday, June 8

Upheaval

Just read about the tragic rampage in Akihabara, which is scarier in that I was in the exact same spot at the exact same time last week. Sadly, 17 people were injured (after a 25 year old drove a lorry through a busy street and then continued by stabbing) and at least 7 died. A few things I want to comment on:

It's a tragedy, no doubt about that. And throughout my time here, there seem to be killing sprees more often. But that these 'freak occurrences' make shocking front page news every time says more about the lack of them than the number of times they actually occur. Japan still has a comparatively minimal crime rate, and I feel safer here than anywhere I've ever been. In the most recent murder rates (per 100,000 people) for example, the US stands at 5.7, the UK at 2.03 and Japan at 0.50.

It's a safe country.

There's not much you can do to prevent someone running people down, but there is a possibility of restraining someone with a knife (on top of the close-proximity needed when using a knife to the victims). Knife crimes are horrific, gun crimes more so, and this is thankfully not a problem in Japan, whether that changes in the future or not.

The biggest problem I see is more deeply centred, and will raise a lot more questions before answers are given. Going to the root of the problem: why are the murders happening at all? It's all too easy to write 'a crazed guy' or as the TimesOnline notes 'a man with a sense of exhaustion and disgust with life'. Fair enough, but why?

Japan is a good country, if you want to play by its rules, which can simply be summed up as 'you join the rat-race, you do what everyone else does and expects of you, you don't complain, you work your arse off, and you'll be fine'.

From the earliest school-days where students (who I've taught anyway) seem to come away with no ability - whether want or freedom to express - of imagination and individuality, Japanese are expected to become a replica from a determined mould of society. (Which is why on the weekends fashion is outrageous). But for those children who have grown up to watch their fathers, and more recently mothers, work 14-hour days in between being piled into trains with people who are no different, or dare I say special, from them, people want more.

This desire has been exaggerated with the internet and other means of modern communication; we can all see how others live, how celebrities enjoy the high life, how our peers have bigger houses, better cars, and less stress and so on. You only have to notice how there is never a week without a reality 'talent' show on tv - everyone wants to be a winner.

And why shouldn't they?

Japan is not a poor country, nor an expensive one. If you want a good meal, have one. A good holiday, take it. There are few here who really could say they have a bad quality of life when you take into consideration the basic needs of warmth, shelter and food.

But needs change, alongside our expectations and comparisons with others.

It's been bugging me recently how many times I hear people say 'I need this' or 'I need that'. No they don't. It's a dangerous word that shouldn't be used lightly. Going slightly off topic, a recent episode of The Apprentice saw the firing of a less-than-typical businesswoman whom the other contestants bullied for her statement that she didn't 'need the job' (earning more money than on offer). Instead, she 'wanted the job' while the others despaired that they 'needed it'. Again, no they don't. They just really want it. They really want to be the winner. Maybe it wasn't so off topic after all.

People want a good life, and rarely it's the case that they get everything they want.

Two things can be drawn from this:

1) It's time to consider what, apart from those basic needs already listed, should be a 'need' drawn from the modernisation of civilisation. Should less work-load be a 'need'? A bi-annual holiday? To be a winner?

2) It's not good enough to say this is what your parents and their parents did, and they were happy so you should be too. With changing times comes changing wants and expectations (and needs). We can no longer rest on what has been, but what must now be. If people are dissatisfied with the choices they are given, it is futile to retort with a tough-luck stance, because people with a 'sense of exhaustion and disgust with life' will continue to show it. As the TimesOnline goes on to say 'Japanese in their 20s use blogs and internet message boards to describe a growing pessimism over the future. They do not want to follow their parents into the drudgery of the “salaryman” life, but have only limited prospects beyond that.'

Tradition is a dangerous thing; if times are changing but peoples' opinions are not allowed to, there is going to be a head-on collision. The same is true for all aspects of tradition, not just culture and society, but fashion, taste, media, religion, relationships, education and so on.

This is something the world is waking up to. Unfortunately Japan had a wake-up call today.

---
Synonyms to upheaval include: agitation, cataclysm, catastrophe, change, chaos, disturbance, revolution, shakeout and turmoil; seemed a suitable heading.

Tuesday, June 3

In The Closet

Mentioned already in the comments but too good to leave it at that, a woman was found hiding in a man's closet last week, in the city of Fukuoka (funny in its own right). She'd been hiding out for anywhere up to a year, and was caught on hidden camera when the owner noticed food going missing.

I guess the discovery was something like this:


It's not funny - I had a huge sliding-door closet in Tsunashima, which freaked me out one night after a particularly scary movie:


Didn't you know, Japanese horror movies are actually documentaries!

Paper Picket, E-Ticket

Dear Sir,

We thank you for your e-mail.

Hereby we would like to inform you that this e-ticket is enough. Due to an error in the website it is not possible to book an e-ticket, but for us it is possible to issue an e-ticket.

This Is The Last Call For Flight Number...

I bought my flight home today. I went for the cheapest option possible (barring the ridiculous i.e. multi-transfer, two-day travel etc) which means I'm on the 9:55PM Air France from Narita on the Thursday 17th July, change at Paris, and then a short hop over to England. I arrive in Southampton (another reason I chose that flight, as it's pretty close to home, and I don't have to bother with Heathrow) 8:30am Friday 18th July; at a sensible time. There was a slightly cheaper option of leaving Tokyo at lunchtime and arriving Southampton at 10pm that night, but didn't want the hassle of getting a train home that late; this way I can take my time.

Two peculiarities:
1) The website droned on about me using a paper-ticket, sent to a UK address, yet as soon as I paid, I received an e-ticket. I guess it's worth taking the paper ticket with me just in case. (Thank you to whoever posts me the ticket).
2) One-way flights are over double the price of a return flight; I understand the reasoning for this, but come on, over double the price!!

So that's it, 6 more weeks here, London job-hunting. I'll only be doing the same thing in England, unless I find something here before I leave.

Monday, June 2

Masters Of Cultural Arts

Keiko's parents sent me a University Entrance present in the post over the weekend. It came in two parts - a box and a long poster-like tube.


It is two furoshiki's, silk cloths used as either wall decorations or to wrap presents/lunchboxes etc. They're beautiful and I'm glad to leave Japan with some not-tacky memorabilia. At the moment, they're hanging back to back, but I'll probably do something different after I leave.


The last picture is just to show the size to scale:

And finally a few techniques of how to use them to wrap:

Tokyo Tokyo Wherefore Art Thou Tokyo?

Nearing the end of my Yamanote 29 challenge, I stumbled (I was tired, ok!) upon this vaguely reminiscent building.


Lo and behold, it is the Tokyo Globe - a reconstruction of Shakespeare's Globe, featuring the bard's own works and others. Just thought I'd raise the cultural aspect of this blog up a notch.

Sunday, June 1

Image Of The Week #84

Follow that swan!

(taken in Inokashira - 1st June, 2008)