Kyoto - Back To The Past

Some of you may have been on tenterhooks ever since I wrote the first half of Kyoto back in June 2007, anxiously awaiting how the snow scuppered our plans. Most of you would have completely forgotten. Here is the much anticipated second part. Follow this link for the first entry.

After the not-so-great sleep (the air-con oven and the motorbike convention) we pulled back the curtains to find snow. Or, as this picture suggests, a slightly blurry and white-splattered building.


Downstairs to the Starbucks - keeping with the Geisha and Samurai theme of course - as we waited for the snow to wear off. We took a bus back to the station to transfer onto a temple I was interested in but, as it was a Sunday, the frequencies were not as often so we had a change of plan and went straight to the castle.


Nijo-jo was completed in 1603 (after three generations consecutively waited for it) and it includes the main Palace Building, an outer architecture and a typical Japanese garden. The most impressive aspect were the randomly placed creaking floorboards; a deliberate design rather than a fault to listen out for intruders.


We walked north-west past Kitano Tenmangu, a shrine which is famous for students to pray for success in their studies, as well as for its plum blossom.


Behind this stood Hirano Shrine, established in 794.


We even met a friend from home:


Further along the path was one of the most famous sites, and the one we were aiming for. Kinkakuji Temple is the Golden Pavilion, was built in 1397 by the shogun Yoshimitsu and it is covered in gold leaf standing proudly overlooking the lake.


It was beautiful and the only downside is that - as with most of the buildings in Japan - it is not the original structure; having been burnt down by an apparently "fanatic monk" in 1950.


The next stop, only a short walk, is a bit controversial. A required taste, some might say. Ryoanji has a rock garden formed of rocks, moss and gravelled sand. A wooden raised platform stretches across and it is lined with tourists staring at the pattern and determining their own interrpetations. An interesting aspect was that unless you look at the layout from a bird's eye view, only 14 of the 15 rocks can be seen at any one time. It is said that only by enlightenment can all 15 be visible (although... there is one spot if you look from the far right about 8 feet back, but that's cheating!) I could've stayed for a while, but Mum and Keith had made their own interpretations quite quickly.


This is a small scale version to see the position of all the rocks (like you care!):


Kyoto is a fascinating city, with a grid structure in the middle and the mountains around it forcing the road design to twist and turn. There are too many temples to mention and, not that we were templed out, but like the Rome-factor, every turn of a corner has something new to offer and it was too overwhelming trying to see and read about everything. So here are a few other pictures of places along the way.


On the other hand, you can't help but be awed by the deep history and the architecture here. Until you stumble across this garden, and all that culture goes out the window. Phallic and other sexual statues were literally everywhere.
Flashback to the penis festival; this I assume is a place to pray for fertility and, funnily enough, is not shown on any of the guide maps! If anyone has an idea what it is named, or its purpose, I'd be interested.


It gave us a good laugh anyway!

We walked farther outside of the city until we were in the fields and the temples were few and far between. Luckily we found a bus stop which took us to the final area of the day. By now, the snow had long stopped and the sun was occassionally breaking through the clouds.

Arashiyama is a touristy and resident getaway area on the west bank of Kyoto, with Mt Arashiyama behind it, the river running through and the central focal point of the Togetsukyo Bridge. In the summer I'm sure it's great for picnics and frisbees. Mum and Keith even made a friend!


Tired from all the walking and, as if a blessing, the little shopping district was also home to a streetcar terminal station which cut right through Kyoto and back to our hotel. I couldn't have planned it better myself.

An extra day would've been plenty to see the remaining few sights but I was more than happy with what we fit into the two days. The highlight for me was Sanjusangendo, the temple with the thousands of statues in rows, for Keith I think the castle with the creaking floorboards (although I may be wrong) and for Mum, well...


The next morning, we set off early for a shinkansen (bullet train) to Hiroshima...

24 Hours Later

One more morning of Fuji, milking the Live Cam for all it's worth.


This is a sunrise!

Someone Made A Boo Boo

This is a little bit embarrassing.

The big headline in Japan yesterday was that someone is killing Government officials who were involved with making a mess of the Pension system. The former Vice Health Minister and his wife were murdered, and the wife of another former Vice Health Minister was stabbed by someone pretending to be her postman. Over 64 million pension records were lost (it was a huge crisis when I was there) and, although it hasn't been proven that the attacks are linked, it's looking that way.

So where did it go amiss? Mainichi, a leading newspaper were hot on the tails of criminals pre-announcing their crimes online and found an entry on Wikipedia detailing exactly that: six hours before the actual murders. Mainichi printed this 'fact' across their front page yesterday morning for the world to see.

However, and this is a big however, the time-stamp was not Japanese Standard Time but GMT: three hours after the murders. They even printed (in large font) the innocent and unsuspecting name of the author who had updated the Wikipedia entry. Oops.

Third Time Yummy

I wasn't going to put any more pictures of sushi attempts on the blog, but I couldn't resist because this batch looked pretty presentable, if I say so myself. The cuts were neat and tidy, and we stuffed ourselves. (Including a good clear-out by the wasabi!) We also had miso soup with noodles.


Sushi rice is deceptively filling but I suppose if it was just piled onto a plate in one go, it is a lot.

Window

I'd argue that the Internet is the greatest invention over any other. I love the fact that you can look at a screen and have access to the rest of the world and any knowledge you can possibly desire. It's shaped communication and advanced forum and discussion. I'm sure I've written about this before but it's worth repeating.

The other great thing the Internet can do is take you to destintations out of physical reach. Google Maps, websites with photos and live webcams are all amazing. Here's a live stream of Mount Fuji. (Be warned though - our daylight hours are usually Japan's night, so if you want to follow the link, aim for 9/10pm-ish.) It reminded me that the Winter months are the best for sightseeing due to the crisp fresh and usually clear skies.


Also, a random picture I found the other day, which is a little clearer.

That's What I Meh-nt To Write

The Collins English Dictionary has decided to include the word 'meh' from the next issue as the public's entry. It means 'indifferent to' or 'unimpressed by' something. It onomatopoeically sounds exactly what it intends.

Schoolkids must be rejoicing around the country as finally their response to "How was your day, darling?" is legitimate.

I use it quite a lot on MSN but how do I really feel about this news?

Meh.

The Japanese alternative is mendou.

The Emperor's New Train

Last week, Emperor Akihito (and his wife) welcomed King Juan Carlos of Spain (and wife) to Japan, and they rode the seldom-used Imperial Train for a little while.


You know what they say...


The reign from Spain stays mainly on the train!

Also, here's the current version of the Narita Express, which links Tokyo to the airport and what the NEX will look like in the future:

The Trees Have Eyes

Look at this supposedly all-natural tree. Listen out for the monstrous name.

You Could Make A Killing

Sometimes I watch Dragons' Den and wonder how many more inventions could still be useful to society. The main category, I suppose, would be energy-saving ones, although there are the occassional gimmicks that sell well (Reggae Sauce). Often, the inventor has either pushed a previous idea forward or tied two together.

And sometimes, ideas just seem wrong.

Take the 'Slot Detective' for example - an online free casino game, featuring Japan's Most Wanted. The idea is to educate the population on what the suspects look like and to hopefully catch them. It also features the Lindsay Anne Hawker killer (number 6).


Is it sick? Perhaps. The Police have not banned it but accept that it "inappropriately uses police property for entertainment and could distress victims". You can play here and decide for yourself.

Image Of The Week #99

A gorgeous view of Tokyo at night, taken by one of Keiko's friends.


Stay tuned for the 100th Image Of The Week, which will be a special retrospective of past Images.

*although obviously the blog's been going for longer than that

Even More Memorabilia

Alarm clocks, tape-measures, and now a Yamanote Line piggy bank. It plays authentic platform jingles as well.

One of the best things about the train system is that each platform in each train station across Japan (not just each station!) has a separate tune. These can range from simple melodies, to anime/video game tunes, to theme tunes from "It's A Small World" to "The Third Man". The anime/video game tunes are located in the area their creator lived or worked, but the variety of songs is useful for the typical act of sleeping on the train and not missing your home station.



My Christmas wish-list is getting longer by the day!

The Shows Must Go On

Thankfully, I've been able to locate a replacement for the Saturday evening "Hole In The Wall" slot.



Sadly, I can imagine Vanessa Feltz up for it.

What's Cuter Than Puppies?

Live puppies, of course!

A San Francisco couple set up a webcam over their newly-born pups, mainly to keep a check on them when they were out and about, but it has since turned into a phenomenon with millions tuning in. This is the post-modern Truman Show.



The puppies are Shiba Inu - Japanese dogs, such as Pochi, the one that I rented in Odaiba. Born October 7th, their names are Autumn (purple collar), Ayumi (yellow), Amaya (red), Aki (green), Akoni (black), and Ando (blue).

Long may the Shiba Inu Puppy Cam continue.

Image Of The Week #98

Not the most welcoming bashi (bridge) ahead!

(taken in Kanda, and taken from this blog)

Snow White

Snowflakes are one thing, but have you heard about snowflies? Me neither until today. How can there be so many yearly occurrences in Japan that I never experienced? Makes you wonder how much of the world we have no idea about.


Around November, teeny-tiny insects start swarming North Japan. Known as 'yuki mushi' or 'snow flies', they are a cross between a fly and an aphid, and grow a white cottony substance on their bodies which looks like snow. There isn't much information on them, especially not in English, so I guess they're rather unknown.


Apparently, they are quite delicate and easily smushed by car windows or cyclists (close your mouth). The problem is that the material snags onto clothes.



Yuki mushi are an indicator of actual snow-fall, usually seven to ten days away.

Radio Taiso

Now this is a peculiar one.

Broadcast on NHK radio in the early morning, and used at other times to boost morale and to get regular exercise, Radio Taiso is a pillarstone of the Japanese cultural identity. It not only signifies the strong work ethic but also Japanese unity; everyone knows the tune and the movements. As Wikipedia states:

The exercises reflect the general role of exercise in Japanese culture--to serve as a symbol of unity and cooperation among the Japanese, as well as to raise energy levels and encourage good health. The purpose of the exercises is not to encourage students to become athletes but to push themselves and develop unity with their classmates.

Keiko would have to go out to the park opposite her house every 7am in the school holidays to participate with her class. It's only a few minutes long (and I'm guessing she, and all the other kids, went straight back to bed!) but it's a good wake-up exercise routine, although it does look a little old-fashioned now; it was once banned under US occupation for looking too militaristic!

Nevertheless, if you look hard enough group exercise breaks are still widely used in Japan in many situations. Take these workmen in Gotanda Station only a few months ago:

When Seagulls Attack

This is in Matsushima, near Sendai, last week.


I went there once - it has all the small islands - but the birds were much better behaved. I guess they're gearing up for the remake of 'The Birds', groan.

From Presidential Bid To Olympic Bid

Now that Obama is going to be sworn in, it makes Chicago's chance of winning the 2016 Olympics that much better, over Tokyo, Rio de Janeiro and Madrid.


Interestingly, he will be the 44th President, which in Japanese means 'death death'. Not a good start.

Image Of The Week #97

I know this is a week too late but since the Halloween blog title is still up, the joint winners of the best costumes are:

Rhi Know, Let's Have A Run-Through

This video has been popping up on blogs all over the place, and I've debated whether to stick it in here. I decided that it needs to be seen, and I shouldn't deprave you of the opportunity.

A zoo in Tokyo held a simulation of a rhino escaping and how to deal with it. It's hilarious, and the music only adds to the drama. Enjoy.