Still feeling a bit drained, but tonight is a friend from work's leaving party. And how can I turn it down when it's in the fashionably hip district of Harajuku. My first party in central Tokyo. Should be fun.
And they have good crepes too.
One of my favourite students comes from Ukraine, but is living in Japan. She is a lot more forceful and demanding than the Japanese students, but she's clued up and I always have a laugh with her. However, she gets frustrated with the Japanese students as they are often too nice and not willing to give opinions etc, so it was her last day today:
Student: You're good in the role of teacher.
The crepes in Harajuku are incredible. Especially for the variety - any fruit/ice-cream/cake/chocolate you can imagine. And notice the salad crepes at the bottom.
I've been in a 'watching old movies' phase for a while now, so I've been 'borrowing' them from 'friends'. And with classics, you can guarantee the quality, as there is very little chance of a pirated copy from inside a cinema. With people standing up to go to the toilet.
I've watched a lot of Billy Wilder and Hitchcock, but I'm running out of ideas. Any suggestions?
I'm reading a weird and wonderful book at the moment that someone lent me. Freakonomics, by Levitt and Dubner, is a really fascinating read about some of the stranger correlations in the world and the reasons why things work the way they do; from sumo wrestling* matches being fixed to why drug dealers live with their parents.
For example, the youth crime rate in America was predicted to rise and rise. But suddenly and miraclulously it dropped. Everything was suggested from a better economy to public morality rising. But the authors found an ingenious and rather satisfactory cause: abortion being legalised. The majority of children who were mugging and committing other crimes just weren't being born anymore.
And it's only £4.99
*I got my Japan link in.
Recently, I've noticed a strange mark all over the place. Magazines, posters, websites, food, tickets, information boards...
Keiko explained it to me today. It's a sort of barcode - each one slightly different - and if you take a photo of it on your phone, it takes you straight to a relevant website about that particular product/information/location etc.
Now that really is something!
In Japan, ask people what you can see if you look at the moon, and you won't hear 'a man's face'. Instead, they will answer 'a rabbit'.
Mid-September is Tsuki-mi (月見) when the Japanese go and appreciate the moon's beauty. They offer food to the moon - especially rice dumplings - believing that the rabbit is pounding rice to make this delicacy on the face of the moon.
Why a rabbit? The reason is taken from a Buddhist story, shamelessly plagiarised from another website:
A long, long time ago in a far distant land there lived a rabbit, a fox and a monkey who believed that they had sinned in their former lives. Thus, as punishment, they are reincarnated as animals. Determined to recompensate for their former sins, they gathered one day and promised to each other to be good and love each other as brothers.
From heaven, Taishakuten, a deity in the Land of Gods, looked upon them in disbelief. "Impossible! The present world is filled with hatred! Even siblings will go as far as to hate, rob or even kill each other. These humans have no compassion and regret anymore, you are telling me that you ANIMALS have it?" he thought to himself.
As a test of their true faith, Taishakuten transformed himself into a weak, old man, and descended to the sinful world where the three animals lived. He laid Himself down on a path, pretending to be in severe sickness, great pain and nearing death. Soon enough the three animals passed by this seemingly dying old man.
"Salvation.. please, help this old man. I have an unfinished journey in front of me, but I have been overcome by hunger and thirst.. Anyone, anything, please offer this old man his salvation.." He begged to the three animals in a frail voice.
Seeing this as the perfect chance to prove their determination to be good, the monkey ran off into the forest and brought back fruits and vegetables; the fox went to the graveyard and brought back offerings to the dead people have left behind; rice cakes, fish, beverages and such. Being small and weak, the rabbit had to steer well away from hunters and mischevious children who take pleasure in bullying such timid animals. Thus, he was not able to find anything to save the dying man.
In great shame, he went back to the old man. "I am so sorry but I have yet to find anything; I will now be searching elsewhere. Please make a small fire and wait for my return," he requested. Standing proudly by the old man, the fox and monkey were getting impatient, "The rabbit brought back nothing and now he tells us to make a fire and wait for him? Useless!" exclaimed the fox and the monkey in disgust.
Moments later the rabbit returned, still with nothing. He stared into the small fire and jumped into its blazing flames, making himself food for the old man. Taishakuten, being very impressed and touched with such a self-sacrificing act, proclaimed that the rabbit shall be ascended to the moon, so that humans will remember the rabbit, and his selfless act forever.
A lesson on describing people:
Phil: Ok, describe me.
Student: Well-built* with black eyes.
Phil: Umm, seriously?!
Student: Yes.
Phil: I have black eyes?
Student: Well, maybe dark grey.
Cheers love.
*I found out later she thought it meant 'overweight'.
Student: I want to shoot my son.
Phil: I'm sorry?!
Student: Can I borrow your video camera?
Phil: Oh!
Inthe context of a lesson on borrowing, it makes sense. Kind of.
It's been a week now since the last post, and a lot longer replying to some of your e-mails. I'm really sorry. The last week I've been quite ill which hasn't been helped by not taking time off work and having a lot of (as the Japanese would say in their Japanglish talk) "promises to keep" throughout the week. But I'm feeling better by the day.
Imagine a television show that attempts to teach useful phrases in another language. Sketches, translations and 'listen and repeat' all seem like very good ideas. So, of course, the Japanese tried it. But that wasn't enough:
Today is my 6 month anniversary!! Congratulations me!!
Even Jude Law decided to celebrate by walking past me in Shibuya. Very thoughtful of him.
The cherry-blossom season was half a year ago now, so the title picture has changed! I know this must be big news for you so don't all rush to leave comments at once. Fuji seems like the biggest landmark, achievement, and memory for my time here so far, so it seemed like a sensible choice.
But seriously, do you like the picture? If not, what should I put in its place? The original picture? Something else? Please let me know...
Thought I'd write something cause I have the urge but I have nothing of any importance to write. Here's my nothing news for the past few days:
I went to TWO of the nursery schools this morning before work. It was some much fun but at the same time absolutely knackering. However, it's worth trying to do two in one morning as it gives me a free morning another day and it saves on travel time/costs. Besides, Tuesday is when the gym's closed so I might as well be busy on Tuesdays and keep Wednesdays open.
I 'borrowed' Alan Partridge, in celebration of Oli who starts his 2nd Year of Uni this week. Jurassic Park! I also 'attained' The Apartment as I wanted to watch a timeless classic, and Billy Wilder is my recent role model. Maybe I'll watch it tonight.
Keiko cooked me "Niku Jaga" for making it six months here. No, not an ageing rock-star but a beef and potato stew*. Very delicious.
I have 3 days off now - very excited but the weather is shockingly bad - 2 weeks of solid rain except for Odaiba day - so I'm not sure if I can really go anywhere. I'll have a think tonight as I don't want to waste my time.
That sure made for a thrilling read, hey!
*Niku = meat, Jagaimo = potato.
On Friday, Keiko and I went to Odaiba, as she’d never been, I loved it there, and the weather finally cleared up (although there’s another typhoon as I type). It was pretty fun:
We had a burger at the place which convinced me to give up vegetarianism and it was a reminder of how much I’m loving meat.
We walked along the beach and saw the mini-Statue of Liberty. It’s a little strange but then again, it is Japan.
The thing I hadn’t done before was gone up the Fuji TV tower – the building/company that started the Odaiba ball rolling - into the cool ball-part of the Fuji TV building that ‘floats’ in the middle.
The view was pretty cool even though it still can’t be said that Tokyo has much of a significant sky-line. That’s perhaps the biggest thing that’s missing in this overwhelming capital of capitals.
Still, you can see the Rainbow Bridge and, just behind it, Tokyo Tower – which I still haven’t been up. Maybe this week…
Kanji are the characters that Japanese and Chinese use for their writing. Originating thousands of years ago, the Chinese characters have evolved from early representations of elements, actions and images but have since evolved and developed to form a cohesive and logical communication style.
Although both countries share the characters, they are read differently and the Chinese use them as tenses in themselves, whereas the Japanese use hiragana and katakana – the domestic scripts – around the kanji to form tenses.
I’ve realised that Japanese will be largely useless to me on my return to England, in terms of conversational ability. However, reading and writing will be something that I can use – internet, magazines, movies – so I have recently been focusing on these.
The best thing about Kanji? It’s actually a fun set of characters to learn – as many do look like the item they represent. On top of this, the meaning and name of the character changes according to the other Kanji around it. I’ll give you some meanings and then you have to try and work out what the Kanji below means. Highlight for the answers. Good luck, have fun and notice how the elements really do look like their meaning!
火 (ka) = fire
山 (yama) = mountain
川 (kawa) = river
休 (yasu) = rest*
1. 火山 volcano
2. 休火山 dormant volcano
入 (iri) = go in
出 (de) = go out
口 (guchi) = mouth/door
3. 入口 entrance
4. 出口 exit
With this information, who is this?
5. 川口-さん Kawaguchi-San - favourite footballer
電 (den) = electric/electricity
車 (sha) = car
話 (wa) = to talk
6. 電車 train
7. 電話 phone
A bit cryptic now:
女 (onna) = woman
子 (ko) = child
8. 好 The compound means 'like/love'
And two very interesting and intriguing names:
東 (tou) = eastern
京 (kyou) = capital
9. 東京 Tokyo - the eastern capital
10. 京東 Kyoto - the capital of the east (the old capital of Japan)
I never realised the last two are mirrors of each other.
*the compound is of a 'man' leaning against a 'tree'
Trying to explain what "meaning" is - as in 'what does this road-sign mean?' - I threw the students into the deep end and told them there were FOUR different meanings to the word "mean".
Any ideas?
A clue: I don't mean to be mean, but what does mean mean?
Student: Buckingham Palace? What's that?
Phil: It's where the Queen lives in London.
Student: Really? I thought it was Beckham Palace.
I'd almost forgotten about this series of entries! ごめんね/I'm sorry!
No pictures of that much interest at the moment since I use them all in my day trip entries, so here's one for all you Vorderman-loving maths freaks:
It is Japanese, although a much bigger phenomenon back home.
(It's a toughie - was used for the 'World Record' Competition)
One of my favourite students is very difficult as he's a high level so often gets frustrated that he's not really learning anything. Most of the teachers don't really bring anything interesting to the VOICE room (discussion room) - just the normal "what's your favourite animal?" "what are you doing this weekend?" banalities. But instead of doing this I normally discuss a topic from my degree or A-Levels or something deeper. Although it may start as a bit of a lecture, the discussion normally gets going and often strong opinions are held.
Some intriguing topics I've discussed are:
*nature vs nurture
*the distinction between animals and humans
*what does 'normal' mean
*the perfect animal
*the impossibility of infinity - (which really confused me and them)
On Wednesday, the student said in front of many other students:
"Some teachers are good, but you are outstanding. Everyone looks forward to it, and your first VOICE has become legend between students".
Yay me.
A lesson on denying and accepting blame. A student (in fact, the haggling/hugging student) is trying to explain why she "didn't" kill my dog.
Student: So I took her out for a walk, but there was a typhoon.
Phil: Why did you do that?
Student: Because she wanted a walk.
Phil: And what happened?
Student: Lightning struck near the arse.
Phil: I'm sorry?!
2 minutes of 'really?' and 'are you sure?' later...
Student: ...the ground.
Phil: Oh! The lightning struck near the earth!
With all the fuss given to it from the other teachers, Nikko was on my list of things-to-see for quite some time now so, with two days off, I took the opportunity to see the place for myself. I invited Keiko along as she’s a good laugh, and it makes life a lot easier when someone native is with you – ordering, booking, asking…
The train took two hours to reach the small city north of Tokyo. Actually, it took 101 minutes and something along these lines has been the train company’s slogan for years. Nikko is famous for two main features – the cluster of shrines and temples within the city, and the waterfalls and monkeys just outside.
The Nikko Free Pass (£22) was fantastic as it included a return ticket from Tokyo, discounts on the shrines and free buses around the area. The last was the biggest incentive, as each journey cost about £6 each time, so we saved a lot this way.
The first stop was Shinkyo Bridge. From what I learnt, there are many a snake story in Nikko’s history. It was at this location (supposedly) that a samurai was carried across the river on the back of two serpents. Well, it was a nice sight. Anyway, as you can see, the weather wasn’t exactly on our side. The fog made walking easy as there was no humidity, but the scenery was a bit misted.
Tosho-gu is the main shrine, which houses a famous carving which I’m sure you’ve heard of . In fact, it may be the most famous carving in the world – the three wise monkeys: hear no evil, speak no evil, see no evil.
Actually, they weren’t that impressive or spectacular (but they are very famous). Housed above the royal stables, surrounded by many other sculptures, and pretty tiny, I preferred this monkey and his ‘sense of humour’.
I suddenly remembered the wise words of Jody on her return from Nikko: “Don’t bother with the shrines; the monkeys are small, the sleeping cat is hidden above a door frame, and after all the stairs, there’s nothing there”. I laughed it off at the time but maybe she had a point.
As all may guide books say, “some people never find the sleeping cat”. We did, but to be honest, it wouldn’t have been that cat-astrophic if we hadn’t. Again, tiny and unspectacular.
Furthermore, after the hundreds of stairs – the hell of Fuji flooded back – there was nothing at the top except a stone tomb where a samurai was buried. Still, the shrines weren’t that awful – they were beautiful, and the rain held off. This dragon water feature is cool.
It looks like two dragons, but actually:
Afterwards, we walked along the river and found an area dedicated to the deaths of young children, which was in front of a small waterfall and rapids. Very serene as it was only us and one old man fishing.
That evening, we headed to the cheap hotel we’d booked, and relaxed – Keiko teaching me Kanji and general chilling out. Although the first day wasn’t incredible, maybe this was because for all my 22 years all the Eastern shrines and temples I’d seen were crammed into six months, so overkill could be a good reason. Even still, the place was beautiful, old, and quiet – a nice escape/retreat/opposite to Tokyo life.
The second day was awesome. We headed North-East on the city bus to the waterfall area – starting with the furthest away and making our way back to the train station in time for our 101 minute train. The bus was actually a coach, and the journey was 1.5 hours up a mountain – and I thought the Yellow Buses of Bournemouth were exciting zooming around the Lansdowne Roundabout.
The Yutaki falls were fantastic – I don’t think I’ve ever seen a waterfall that close up before so it really was something. Between this fall and the next was a board-walk – literally planks of wood through woods, marshland and over rivers that you followed.
There are meant to be deer, monkeys and bears; the latter was the reason most people were carrying around bells with them although I’m not sure if a bell is really going to frighten a bear if he’s looking for lunch. Anyway, this sign made me laugh.
Doesn’t this tree look like something from ‘Sleepy Hollow’?
And then the sun came out! Just for five minutes, but if I could’ve chosen only five minutes the whole time, it would’ve been them. This area is known as the old battlefield because (again, supposedly) a snake fought a millipede here. The snake won. Of course.
The walk was the best thing I did in Nikko as it was different to anything I’ve done before and every 5 minutes was a different scene. There were a lot of children on school trips and a four year old boy ran up to me, using my level of broken Japanese to tell me he saw three deer. It was so cute as he was speaking so fast and so seriously as if it was the most important thing in the world. We didn’t see any monkeys or bears but we saw the deer that the boy had been so excited about. Make your own joke about Bambi here because, truth be told, I can’t think of one.
More rapids further in the journey, but when we arrived at Kegon Falls which is famous in Japan, the fog was so bad that we couldn’t see it. Didn’t matter too much as we’d seen other great waterfalls. And you don’t want to see everything all of the time; otherwise, what do you see next time?
As compensation, the fog caused this cool effect of the sun breaking through the trees.
The train home was fine, and we both agreed that it was a great way to forget about work for two days.
